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Retirement Advice From Those Who Learned the Hard Way

My favorite economics professor, for the last class of the year, which almost nobody attended did "how to become a millionaire, guaranteed -- 10 examples."
This was example #1 -- military, stay in for 20, government, stay in for 10-20, two pensions, loads of benefits, probably a few million in easily liquidated funds for the fun stuff.

I didnt think you got 2 seperate pensions. I thought that the years served in the military would add to the years served in other gov't positions to calculate your pension.

My Father who served during WWII had his years of Army service added to his years with the SEC to determine his pension I think he said he got an additional 2% each year he worked, so I think he was in the Army for 4 years, which meant he got an additional 8% on his pension calculation. Maybe it is because he did not qualify for a pension on his Army service alone?
 
Completely agree. Running ICE cars into the ground has been our MO. We still have a 2004 and 2006 BMW. Prior to that we had a Honda Accord that we held for 20 years. Also going for cheaper gas.

EVs may change this equation. We figure we will need to lease for several years to get the tax and commuter benefits of the foreign EV e.g. an Audi. We will dispose before the battery dies therefore leasing is also better.
Also had a Honda Accord for 16 years - it was the first brand new car we were able to purchase. I probably would have kept it for longer if I didn't get a car from my job.

We were so proud that day we bought it. Now that we can easily afford buying a new, we prefer to buy used cars.
 
I didnt think you got 2 seperate pensions. I thought that the years served in the military would add to the years served in other gov't positions to calculate your pension.

My Father who served during WWII had his years of Army service added to his years with the SEC to determine his pension I think he said he got an additional 2% each year he worked, so I think he was in the Army for 4 years, which meant he got an additional 8% on his pension calculation. Maybe it is because he did not qualify for a pension on his Army service alone?
I think that is the way it worked for my Dad. He put 20 some years in the Army and retired as a Major with a pension. He then worked for 20 years for the Post Office and retired from there. The classic double dip. When he passed in the 90's, he was grossing over $8K/mo

I think that they have changed the system so that is no longer possible.
 
I didnt think you got 2 seperate pensions. I thought that the years served in the military would add to the years served in other gov't positions to calculate your pension.

My Father who served during WWII had his years of Army service added to his years with the SEC to determine his pension I think he said he got an additional 2% each year he worked, so I think he was in the Army for 4 years, which meant he got an additional 8% on his pension calculation. Maybe it is because he did not qualify for a pension on his Army service alone?

I have a State govt pension. While I was actively working I was given 10 additional points on hiring and promotion exams for being a veteran. There was an option for additional years of service in the pension calculator for military service, but there was a cost to "buy in". I did not take advantage of that perk. It could also be applied if you had a break in employment for military service, like reserve members being called up.

There were other types of service that qualify, like Peace Corps.



If you served in active military duty prior to CalPERS-covered employment, you may be eligible to purchase service credit.

Eligibility​

You may purchase a maximum of four years of military service credit if you meet one of the eligibility requirements as follows:

  • A current, former, or retired member of a CalPERS-covered employer that contracts for this option.
  • A current or retired state or school member.
You can't purchase military service credit if you:

  • Are receiving military retirement pay based on 20 years of active military service.
  • Have received military service credit in any other retirement system.
 
Actually - wages went up 11X, so houses went up an additional 6X or 54%.

Wages were not stagnant, REAL wages were stagnant - but that should already take inflation into account. Of course, houses are an example of something that went higher.
Almost every major category that "matters" has risen significantly more than wages over the past 40 years, while real wages have basically stayed flat. Those include but are not limited to: real estate, healthcare and education. The CPI has some inherent flaws in how it is calculated: https://www.investopedia.com/ask/an...some-limitations-consumer-price-index-cpi.asp

We've monkeyed with the CPI enough that even the Fed doesn't pay attention to it when making decisions on interest rate policy, they watch the core PCE data much more closely in comparison. For anyone interested, you can see how we used to calculate inflation rates vs now via this website: http://www.shadowstats.com/alternate_data/inflation-charts

1689171434778.png


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Which inflation rate in the charts above better reflects our real world day to day experiences? For me at least, it's the second chart where inflation is still well above 10% and hit a high of almost 17-18% at it's peak last year.
 
I retired from State Government after 30 years. Biggest expense was medical but I had so much sick leave I had a healthy VEBA that paid my medical until I was Medicare eligible. We have several attorneys in Child Support, many who preferred a regular paycheck vs depending on self employment. Government work isn’t glamorous but honest and at times rewarding. It’s not how much you earn but what you do with what you earn that matters.
One of the best financial budgeting books that I ever read was written by now Senator Elizabeth Warren called All Your Worth: https://www.amazon.com/All-Your-Worth-Ultimate-Lifetime/dp/0743269888

It's all about balance. The basic plan in the book uses a 50/30/20 breakdown. Up to 50% for necessities, 30% for wants, 20% for savings. I'm skipping over a ton of important details, but that's the gist of it. I've lived by this for the most part since reading this book some 15 years or so ago now.
 
Same MO for me, but I'm very near the tipping point for an EV. I'm still driving a 2007 Hyundai Sonata that I got a great deal on when it was only 6 months old with 13K miles on it. I commuted in it for 10 years and since then have been driving it as much as possible during retirement, while sparing our newer 2015 Honda Accord from some of the wear-and-tear. Even that car is now 8 years old (54K miles on it, and still drives like new). However, the Hyundai's AC no longer works, and I'm not willing to spend the $$ to fix a 16-yo car. I've been eyeing EVs for awhile now but holding off until the ranges got better. Now they're at the point where I may finally pull the trigger.

If you can afford to wait another 1-3 years for a BEV - I think that would be best. Most of the battery packs in today's vehicles are still using NMC based rare metals due to higher energy density - but there are newer FRP/M3P battery packs coming to market now that have decent energy density and don't have the pitfalls of the NMC battery packs like fire risk, cycling limitations for charging, not being able to charge to 100% for day to day driving, etc. We have a 2023 Tesla MY - and realistically if you're charging to 80% and never driving below 10% - the real world range is around 200 miles between charges. It's still a great vehicle - but we likely won't be buying another BEV until FRP/M3P type battery packs are more prevalent. These packs can be charged to 100% without any issues, have nearly zero fire risk, and offer much higher cycle rates when compared to NMC packs. Just my two cents of course. The entry level Model 3 RWD actually already has a FRP pack today, and with current federal rebates off the roughly 40k purchase price, comes in around 32.5k, and if your state offers additional rebates - some can now get into this model for under 30k all in.
 
It's all about balance. The basic plan in the book uses a 50/30/20 breakdown. Up to 50% for necessities, 30% for wants, 20% for savings. I'm skipping over a ton of important details, but that's the gist of it. I've lived by this for the most part since reading this book some 15 years or so ago now.

For those who want to get there considerably faster, look for a website called "Mr Money Mustache." It sounds like it's some sort of an egregious scam website. But it's basically the clearinghouse for f.i.r.e. information.

Anyone who is worried that they might not be able to enjoy a retirement should head over there right now and start reading. And economics and finance geeks are going to enjoy some of the schemes laid out -- just because we're into that sort of thing.
 
If you can afford to wait another 1-3 years for a BEV - I think that would be best. Most of the battery packs in today's vehicles are still using NMC based rare metals due to higher energy density - but there are newer FRP/M3P battery packs coming to market now that have decent energy density and don't have the pitfalls of the NMC battery packs like fire risk, cycling limitations for charging, not being able to charge to 100% for day to day driving, etc. We have a 2023 Tesla MY - and realistically if you're charging to 80% and never driving below 10% - the real world range is around 200 miles between charges. It's still a great vehicle - but we likely won't be buying another BEV until FRP/M3P type battery packs are more prevalent. These packs can be charged to 100% without any issues, have nearly zero fire risk, and offer much higher cycle rates when compared to NMC packs. Just my two cents of course. The entry level Model 3 RWD actually already has a FRP pack today, and with current federal rebates off the roughly 40k purchase price, comes in around 32.5k, and if your state offers additional rebates - some can now get into this model for under 30k all in.
Thanks for the information, this is good to know and well worth considering. I've been looking at the 2023 Model 3 Long-range. Does that one have the FRP pack?
 
For all of you EV experts: Should we sell our 2019 eGolf with 25,000 miles now to buy another EV? If not when should we sell it?

Here is the warranty info. They say the warranty is a clue as to how long they expect the battery to last.

- 3 years/36,000 miles vehicle warranty (done - held 4 years)
- 5 years/60,000 miles power train and high voltage system (5 years Aug 2025)
- 8 years/100,000 miles for the battery for defects/workmanship and net capacity below 70% (what does this mean?)

Pros to selling eGolf now:

- Take advantage of higher prices due to auto shortage. We were offered $15k by the VW Dealer (Paid $11,500 when lease ended last year). May get a few thousand more at CarMax, Carvana or at Audi or ??? trade-in.
- Battery still has life. May garner better sales today.
- Can lease a foreign vehicle with tax advantages. Feds may close this loophole in future
- new car will have commuter lane sticker to get to work faster
- will get longer range EV or Plug in Hybrid - current range 125 miles
- we could use our ICE cars until we find an EV worth leasing


Cons (keep the eGolf)
- Car is paid off. No lease payments or down payment.
- battery has at least 1 - 4 years of warranty remaining depending on how you interpret the warranty above
- If I pay for commuter lane access, costs only $400 in extra payment per year via tolls. A lot less than a lease.
- No freeway entrance carpool access via sticker so will still encounter delays
- ICE cars old and unreliable for long range driving 2004 and 2006
- Wait for better batteries by 2026'
- insurance lower on older vehicle
- only 125 mile range. Good for commute and in-town only. Our ICE cars are old and unreliable.

What would you do?
 
Thanks for the information, this is good to know and well worth considering. I've been looking at the 2023 Model 3 Long-range. Does that one have the FRP pack?
Currently in the US there are no MY's that have FRP battery packs. The MY AWD - the least expensive model - built only in GigaTexas - uses 4680 Tesla built battery packs that are NMC based. The MY LR - built in Fremont or Gigatexas - uses 2170 NMC battery packs built in GigaNevada by Tesla and/or Panasonic. The only US Tesla model that currently uses FRP packs is the M3 RWD model - the least expensive M3 model. The "new" M3 model - dubbed Project Highland - is due out later this calendar year - and we're not sure yet what battery packs the new model will be using - so we'll have to wait and see once these new models are actually announced and released. It is rumored that the new M3 due out later this year, at least those being built in GigaShanghai in China, will be using a newer FRP based battery pack - an M3P pack from CATL - effectively the nextgen FRP type pack - that will offer better energy density and 10-15% better range than the current FRP battery packs today. We'll have to wait and see what the US models use though. The problem with using CATL battery packs is that they are manufactured in China - and this negatively impacts the eligibility for the full $7500 tax rebate in some cases.
 
If you can afford to wait another 1-3 years for a BEV - I think that would be best. Most of the battery packs in today's vehicles are still using NMC based rare metals due to higher energy density - but there are newer FRP/M3P battery packs coming to market now that have decent energy density and don't have the pitfalls of the NMC battery packs like fire risk, cycling limitations for charging, not being able to charge to 100% for day to day driving, etc. We have a 2023 Tesla MY - and realistically if you're charging to 80% and never driving below 10% - the real world range is around 200 miles between charges. It's still a great vehicle - but we likely won't be buying another BEV until FRP/M3P type battery packs are more prevalent. These packs can be charged to 100% without any issues, have nearly zero fire risk, and offer much higher cycle rates when compared to NMC packs. Just my two cents of course. The entry level Model 3 RWD actually already has a FRP pack today, and with current federal rebates off the roughly 40k purchase price, comes in around 32.5k, and if your state offers additional rebates - some can now get into this model for under 30k all in.
Keep watching to see if Aptera comes out. The ultimate cheapskate transportation. . .
 
For all of you EV experts: Should we sell our 2019 eGolf with 25,000 miles now to buy another EV? If not when should we sell it?

Here is the warranty info. They say the warranty is a clue as to how long they expect the battery to last.

- 3 years/36,000 miles vehicle warranty (done - held 4 years)
- 5 years/60,000 miles power train and high voltage system (5 years Aug 2025)
- 8 years/100,000 miles for the battery for defects/workmanship and net capacity below 70% (what does this mean?)
Yes and no. The battery pack warranties are actually legally required here in the US: https://caredge.com/guides/ev-battery-warranties

1689180051923.png


So the predictive nature of the length of the battery pack warranty as it relates to how long the battery pack will actually last really doesn't have much to do with the actual length of the warranty itself, it more has to do with how the battery warranty deals with degradation - which is typically in the fine print and needs to be taken into account. For example, the 2023 Tesla MY LR that we just bought - has an 8 year 120k mile battery pack warranty - with a minimum of 70% battery retention of overall capacity. That means that if we were to keep our MY until either 2031 or up to 120k miles - and we have less than 70% battery capacity left before the end of the warranty period - then our MY LR may be eligible for a battery pack replacement under warranty terms (emphasis on MAY - there are caveats embedded in the fine print). So if our original EPA rated range miles is 318 miles - that means if the pack falls to under 318*70=222.6 miles maximum calculated range - the pack may be eligible for warranty replacement.

Here's a link to the vehicle warranties that Tesla currently offers: https://www.tesla.com/support/vehicle-warranty

Please note if you live in Cali - the warranty requirements are even better at 10 yr/150k miles.

1689180258680.png


Pros to selling eGolf now:
- Take advantage of higher prices due to auto shortage. We were offered $15k by the VW Dealer (Paid $11,500 when lease ended last year). May get a few thousand more at CarMax, Carvana or at Audi or ??? trade-in.
- Battery still has life. May garner better sales today.
- Can lease a foreign vehicle with tax advantages. Feds may close this loophole in future
- new car will have commuter lane sticker to get to work faster
- will get longer range EV or Plug in Hybrid - current range 125 miles
- we could use our ICE cars until we find an EV worth leasing


Cons (keep the eGolf)
- Car is paid off. No lease payments or down payment.
- battery has at least 1 - 4 years of warranty remaining depending on how you interpret the warranty above
- If I pay for commuter lane access, costs only $400 in extra payment per year via tolls. A lot less than a lease.
- No freeway entrance carpool access via sticker so will still encounter delays
- ICE cars old and unreliable for long range driving 2004 and 2006
- Wait for better batteries by 2026'
- insurance lower on older vehicle
- only 125 mile range. Good for commute and in-town only. Our ICE cars are old and unreliable.

What would you do?

Since you live in Cali - you have better warranty protection already. I wouldn't necessarily be in a hurry to make a move as a result. EVs, as you know, are expensive - so there's that. Most lease deals on EVs are far from ideal from a financing standpoint from what I've observed. The residual value is set way lower than the actual proven residual values of the vehicles which is advantage manufacturer. At least in the case of Tesla - they no longer allow for leases to be bought out either - you must hand in the vehicle at the end of the lease - the only other option is to extend the lease up to six months - then you must hand in the car at the end of the lease extension. I wouldn't lease a Tesla for this reason alone. I'd also advise to be careful with any BEV outside of Tesla or Lucid - which make the most efficient BEVs on the road today. There are many BEVs coming onto the market, but they are much less efficient as is evidenced by the fact that most of them either offer less range when using similar sized battery packs, or equal range by using substantively larger battery packs in comparison - which means you're spending more money every time you charge the vehicle for the same amount of range - which adds up over time especially over the long term and when using public charging stations. Just my two cents on this topic after having done a ton of research before purchasing our 2023 MY LR. We loved the Lucid Air Pure - but it was simply too expensive for us at around $90k with the options we wanted - and was also ineligible for any federal or state rebates given it's price point. We spent just under $60k for the MY LR - and it was eligible for both federal and state tax rebates - which saved us $10k right off the bat.

Per my prior recommendation in this thread - I'd recommend waiting 1-3 years as I think we will see nextgen battery packs coming to market that aren't NMC based - which mitigate most of the core concerns with existing packs today, including moral and political concerns surrounding mining of rare metals, fire risks, battery cycling limitations, etc. I doubt we will keep our MY LR for more than a few years before selling it and/or trading it in against a newer model with a nextgen battery pack for example. If/when I replace our 2018 RAM 1500 ICE pickup - I'll likely do so with a BEV pickup a few years from now that is using a nextgen battery pack as well.

All of that said - if you're looking for a good deal on a new BEV right now - I'd likely recommend you go drive a Tesla M3 RWD. There are models in existing inventory - and with the $7500 federal rebate plus state Cali rebates available - you'll get around $10k back from a tax rebate standpoint - which means the price of this model drops to right around $30k - and this model uses a FRP battery pack that you can charge to 100% every day without any issues - and offers 272 miles of range today. Might be worth taking a spin just to see what you guys think about this vehicle. Tesla is also offering certain regional price breaks to clear out existing M3 inventory to make room for the newer M3 models being introduced in a few months - so if you don't care about driving the latest and greatest newest whizbang model - might be worth some consideration.
 
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Thank you @HitchHiker71. Wow! I didn't know that the warranty is extended in California.

Are you referring to the BMW M3? or Tesla M3?
 
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Thank you @HitchHiker71. Are you referring to the BMW M3? or Tesla M3?
Tesla Model 3 RWD model. I will DM you a referral link and take this EV related convo offline since this isn't the original intent of this thread. :cool:
 
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BTW we were just told at our annual checkup diagnostic that we needed a new battery charging module.

PERFORMED VEHICLE SCAN AND FOUND FAULTY P31EA00 BATTERY CHARGER CHARGING MODULE 2 FAULTY IN MEMORY. ...RECOMMEND TO REPLACE J966 MODULE

Do you think this would be still covered by the warranty since it involves the Battery Charger? The VW dealer told us it would be $900 to repair. I am going back to the VW dealer to confirm that it is not covered in the warranty especially with the Calif warranty law.
 
@HitchHiker71 Your thoughts are much appreciated.

Can you provide the source of the statement about California Warranty law? I googled and there are too many articles with legalese.

All, I also don't know what "High Voltage System" means in the current 5 year warranty. Do you think that includes a battery charger module?
 
BTW we were just told at our annual checkup diagnostic that we needed a new battery charging module.

PERFORMED VEHICLE SCAN AND FOUND FAULTY P31EA00 BATTERY CHARGER CHARGING MODULE 2 FAULTY IN MEMORY. ...RECOMMEND TO REPLACE J966 MODULE

Do you think this would be still covered by the warranty since it involves the Battery Charger? The VW dealer told us it would be $900 to repair. I am going back to the VW dealer to confirm that it is not covered in the warranty especially with the Calif warranty law.

You'd have to consult the fine print on the VW battery warranty for the year of your VW model as to whether the charging module is covered as part of the battery warranty. I'd guess overall the charger is not included in the battery pack warranty as a general rule.
 
@HitchHiker71 Your thoughts are much appreciated.

Can you provide the source of the statement about California Warranty law? I googled and there are too many articles with legalese.

All, I also don't know what "High Voltage System" means in the current 5 year warranty. Do you think that includes a battery charger module?
Actually after further research - it appears that the 10yr/150k battery warranty for ZEVs in Cali doesn't go into effect until 2026 model year, and the current 10yr/150k only applies to PHEVs in Cali - not ZEVs (BEVs):
 
One of the best financial budgeting books that I ever read was written by now Senator Elizabeth Warren called All Your Worth: https://www.amazon.com/All-Your-Worth-Ultimate-Lifetime/dp/0743269888

It's all about balance. The basic plan in the book uses a 50/30/20 breakdown. Up to 50% for necessities, 30% for wants, 20% for savings. I'm skipping over a ton of important details, but that's the gist of it. I've lived by this for the most part since reading this book some 15 years or so ago now.
How much of the book was lies? Very important to know that before reading.
 
One of the worst timeshare tours I ever had was a older couple. The wife desperately wanted to travel. The husband's only interest in life was maintaining his lawn. I think half the neighborhoods in North America have some version of this man. He was the most stultifyingly dull person I have ever encountered. Money was on autopilot. They didn't have a care or a responsibility in the world. And he was going to mow his law and care for his lawn -- and not his wife -- until he dropped dead.

That isn't a marriage. It's a prison sentence.
Come on... (Does your name means scoop of delicious ice cream topped with a pour of Kona liquor???)
Man wanted peace and quiet. He could have been a military brat, tired of moving every 2 years.
It is not a prison. It is a decision: keep nagging him or go somewhere where they have beautiful lawns (gulf courses lawn engineers?), while the missus visits the surroundings.
 
How much of the book was lies? Very important to know that before reading.
Not sure what you mean - this book was written in 2005 - well before the author was involved in politics - and she was a Harvard professor for many years prior to jumping into the political arena. I'm not really a fan of her political views in most respects - but I've read a LOT of financial literature and budgeting books over the years - and this book stands out as the best one of all that I have read to date. This book nor anything in it has anything to do with politics.
 
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Why does the wife have to only conform with the husband's wishes to stay home and mow the lawn. Any good marriage involves compromise on both sides. That may have been a key indicator of deeper problems in the marriage.

If he really hated travel, perhaps the wife could go with girlfriends or relatives. There are many solutions if there is willingness to compromise.
 
Come on... (Does your name means scoop of delicious ice cream topped with a pour of Kona liquor???)
Man wanted peace and quiet. He could have been a military brat, tired of moving every 2 years.
It is not a prison. It is a decision: keep nagging him or go somewhere where they have beautiful lawns (gulf courses lawn engineers?), while the missus visits the surroundings.
I suppose when you don’t make the sale you end up vilifying the poor people.
 
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