Replacement Windows

[IngridN]

We are looking to replace our 32 windows + sliding glass door. 25 years old, aluminum frame, double plane, slider, windows, approximately half of which have failed in the last 2-3 years.

In doing my research, I have come across 'retrofit' which would reduce the cost by about $200 per window. One of the companies states that 80-90% of their installs are retrofits rather than full window replacements. The only downside is that the framing is more substantial, taking away from the glass portion. I am not looking at replacing the glass only as all of our larger windows are now difficult to open, so options are full replacement of the windows or 'retrofit.'

Has anyone done retrofits rather than full installs? How have they held up? window mfg you used? Other?

Thank you.

Ingrid

 

[natasha5687]

I have only ever done full replacement windows but what I did find was that getting several quotes was very helpful in negotiations. I also used a reputable local company where I didn't have to pay premium for their advertising and such.

 

[vacationhopeful]

32 windows and patio door ... Are you trying to be modest in cost? Will you be staying for 15-20+ years in this house? What type of siding do you have?

If you are going to be staying in the house for many MORE years or other homes in your area have already been "updated", you might want to consider updating more than your windows.

If your 25 yo windows have a small opening -- and your style of house allows, you might want to OPEN up the space (wider or taller or some combination) and finish it off with a good vapor barrier, better insulation and NEW SIDING.

Go driving around the area and LOOK at various pieces of other HOUSES you like the look & feel of the windows and sidings. Take pictures! Do some cut and paste on various pictures to your house. If the cut & paste don't look right, take the pictures of items you like and give them to a good architect. Roof hips and overhangs, boxes or bays can extend lines on the house. Plus buy some magazines .... see what appeals to you.

 

[Kal]

...The only downside is that the framing is more substantial, taking away from the glass portion. ...

The only difference between a "full install" and a "retrofit" is the presence of the nail fin. Otherwise the window is the same (for a specific design and style).

Full installation is done with new construction before the siding is installed on the home. The window unit is placed into the opening and fins extend outward. The window is held in place by placing nails in the nail holes provided in the fin surface.

For existing homes, it is very tedious to deal with siding removal & replacement. The old window and casing is removed and the new window unit is inserted into the rough framed opening. The window is secured by nailing laterally into the rough frame. Most window openings are usually a standard size but the new window will need to allow about 1/4 inch on all sides of the opening. Little if any modification is made to the home siding.

The nail fin is usually about 1/8 inch thick so a full installation is only a tiny bit more substantial than retrofit.

The last set of retrofit windows I received had the fin included in error. The manufacturer said to just cut off the fin as the window structures are identical.

You biggest challenge is to select the best material of construction. Remember Vinyl casings are damaged by UV sunlight over time and become very brittle. Avoid vinyl like the plague. The windows I installed were manufactured by Pella.

 

[vacationhopeful]

I have installed Pellas in one of my houses. Very good windows and tight. I installed my windows with the nailing fins.

MY current home is 1962 wood windows - single pane which I installed reflective film on. My next project will be to replace the original storm windows with a new high grade storm windows. My interior wood window frames are stained and match all my floors, interior wood trim and doors.

 

[IngridN]

The only difference between a "full install" and a "retrofit" is the presence of the nail fin. Otherwise the window is the same (for a specific design and style).

Full installation is done with new construction before the siding is installed on the home. The window unit is placed into the opening and fins extend outward. The window is held in place by placing nails in the nail holes provided in the fin surface.

For existing homes, it is very tedious to deal with siding removal & replacement. The old window and casing is removed and the new window unit is inserted into the rough framed opening. The window is secured by nailing laterally into the rough frame. Most window openings are usually a standard size but the new window will need to allow about 1/4 inch on all sides of the opening. Little if any modification is made to the home siding.

The nail fin is usually about 1/8 inch thick so a full installation is only a tiny bit more substantial than retrofit.

The last set of retrofit windows I received had the fin included in error. The manufacturer said to just cut off the fin as the window structures are identical.

You biggest challenge is to select the best material of construction. Remember Vinyl casings are damaged by UV sunlight over time and become very brittle. Avoid vinyl like the plague. The windows I installed were manufactured by Pella.

Yep, vinyl is not our choice at all...I'm looking at fiberglass. I have appointments next week with both Home Depot and Renewal by Andersen. Our home was custom built (prior owner) and we love the sunlight. We're looking at $30-40K for the window replacements and with the other reno costs, it makes sense to see where we can cut costs where it makes sense. We may mix and match doing retrofits on the 2nd floor andf ull replacements on the 1st.

Ingrid

 

[Kal]

Yes, all of my replacements are fiberglass. I'm sure you will be considering the inside facing of the window unit too. I have a big Anderson slider with an inside facing to match the wood in the kitchen. The outside is a different material to combat weather exposure. You will probably find Anderson to be a very spendy product.

Pay particular attention to how the installation is properly insulated and weather proofed. That's where installers cut lots of corners.

 

[IngridN]

Yes, all of my replacements are fiberglass. I'm sure you will be considering the inside facing of the window unit too. I have a big Anderson slider with an inside facing to match the wood in the kitchen. The outside is a different material to combat weather exposure. You will probably find Anderson to be a very spendy product.

Pay particular attention to how the installation is properly insulated and weather proofed. That's where installers cut lots of corners.

Yes, once we decide on product, we'll need to make sure we get a good installer.

Ingrid

 

[x3 skier]

I replaced all the old aluminum slider windows with Andersen insulated and low e windows several years ago. I have been very happy with them.

Cheers

 

[cotraveller]

We replaced most of our windows with Pella casements 20 years ago or thereabouts. We later replaced our sun room windows with Accent vinyl windows. The south facing vinyl windows would expand and contract with the full winter sun and crack the drywall. We replaced those with Renewal by Andersen and have had no further expansion problems. We also have replaced a sliding patio door with an Andersen clad wooden door with no problems. Based on our experience I'd recommend Pella, Andersen, and Renewal by Andersen. All have worked well for us.

 

[Fern Modena]

If you are a member of Costco, check the area just before the store exit. They probably have either an interior designer's cards or a window company/installer who gives members who deal with them a hefty discount. Years ago I used an interior designer who was one of their contacts to get my blinds and window coverings and I saved about 30%, on high end name brand products (no "budget blinds"), some of it custom work.

Fern

We are looking to replace our 32 windows + sliding glass door. 25 years old, aluminum frame, double plane, slider, windows, approximately half of which have failed in the last 2-3 years.

In doing my research, I have come across 'retrofit' which would reduce the cost by about $200 per window. One of the companies states that 80-90% of their installs are retrofits rather than full window replacements. The only downside is that the framing is more substantial, taking away from the glass portion. I am not looking at replacing the glass only as all of our larger windows are now difficult to open, so options are full replacement of the windows or 'retrofit.'

Has anyone done retrofits rather than full installs? How have they held up? window mfg you used? Other?

Thank you.

Ingrid

 

[IngridN]

We replaced most of our windows with Pella casements 20 years ago or thereabouts. We later replaced our sun room windows with Accent vinyl windows. The south facing vinyl windows would expand and contract with the full winter sun and crack the drywall. We replaced those with Renewal by Andersen and have had no further expansion problems. We also have replaced a sliding patio door with an Andersen clad wooden door with no problems. Based on our experience I'd recommend Pella, Andersen, and Renewal by Andersen. All have worked well for us.

The majority of our windows are southern and western exposure. I do not get a warm and fuzzy feeling with vinyl, even though one of the companies I visited earlier this week thought that was the answer...they were too focused on my wants of maintaining the minimal framing, lots of glass look. That is secondary.

Ingrid

 

[cotraveller]

I agree. Based on our experience with vinyl windows I would never put them anywhere that has much sun exposure. Actually I wouldn't put them anywhere, I'd avoid them. That's why I didn't include them in my recommended list.

Our Andersen patio door is vinyl clad and we have had no problems with it but it faces a covered patio and gets no sun. I don't know if sun would cause problems with the vinyl cladding.

 

[cp73]

We put in Milgard Tuscany Vinyl windows a few years ago and replaced almost all our windows. We love them. I don't understand some of your comments about vinyl. Milgard provides lifetime guarantees on their windows including glass breakage. I also have a couple of windows that are Pella. Eventually we will replace them and I have no problem replacing them with Vinyl. I recommend you consider looking at Milgard Windows. Before I purchased I looked at them all. In addition I agree with one of the other posters. Take your time in selecting your windows. In fact I might split your job and do it over a couple of years. Take your time and rethink each window. Don't blindly replace it with the same style/functionality you have now. For large sliders consider doing french sliders, or sliders that open in the middle, vanish into a wall, or open and fold away to bring the outside into your home. There are lots of new designs with opening functionality that didn't exist years ago. Take your time and rethink each window/slider being replaced.

 

[easyrider]

Welded Vinyl framed windows with a white base frame color have no problems with expansion. While the base frame color is white the exterior can be painted almost any color.

In some municipalities, retro fit is not allowed meaning that the window is required to be installed with the nail fin attaching the window to the building and flashing attached to the window fin to the wall sheeting or window opening framing. Also, some areas have a seismic code that would require fin nail on. So in wet or seismically active areas retro fit may not meet building codes.

Welded Vinyl frames insulate better than wood or fiberglass. Vinyl frames are easier to maintain. Vinyl is less costly than fiberglass.

Fiberglass can be painted inside and out giving more design choices. Energy efficiency of the frame is very close to vinyl.

Bill

 

[Kal]

...Welded Vinyl frames insulate better than wood or fiberglass. Vinyl frames are easier to maintain. Vinyl is less costly than fiberglass.

Fiberglass can be painted inside and out giving more design choices. Energy efficiency of the frame is very close to vinyl.

Bill

A real positive is being able to paint fiberglass to match interior and exterior décor. In addition, do a side-by-side comparison of vinyl and fiberglass. The vinyl is very weak while the fiberglass is 8x stronger than vinyl. Fiberglass can also support very large panes of glass while vinyl styles will sag.