Porceline vs Ceramic tile

[natasha5687]

Sooo, I got the home improvement itch and before I knew it I ripped out the old dingy plastic shower stall and vanity. I was going to just replace it with a similar product but I got the bright idea that it would be a much nicer finish for about the same price if I just went ahead and did tile. I have never tiled anything but it looks simple enough. I want to do this on a budget so granite or marble tile is out of the question. I am seeing some very nice budget friendly tile in both ceramic and porceline. Is there any reason why I should go with one over the other?

Thanks

 

[DeniseM]

I don't think that doing a professional job of tiling is simple at all. I would not take this on as a first project.

I also would NOT put tile in a shower - way too much trouble to keep the grout looking clean.

 

[natasha5687]

I don't think that doing a professional job of tiling is simple at all. I would not take this on as a first project.

I also would NOT put tile in a shower - way too much trouble to keep the grout looking clean.

Denise,

What would you suggest as an alternate material? I dont want to do another shower stall as they tend to discolor over time and I know me, as soon as it starts to discolor I'll end up ripping it out. I do not intend to tile the bottom of the shower as I am installing a shower pan and then tiling the walls. I do have a back up plan in the event that it becomes way more to handle than I anticipated (hire a pro).

 

[Passepartout]

I disagree, Denise. Tiling a shower enclosure is a good DIY project. Just go to e-How dot com and get the step-by-step instructions. It is NOT a one afternoon project, but isn't physically difficult. You can rent (or borrow) a tile cutter and grout 'float' from a home center, and they may help with the measuring and layout. Porcelain/ceramic makes no difference. It's just preference of the style. I like the big 9" X 12" tiles, but that's just me. The most important item is where the first tile is set. Use a level and chalk line. Do not go out of a corner with full-size tiles.

Once you have it grouted, use silicone sealer on the grout lines (preferably annually) and the grout lines will stay looking new for years.

The option- of those plastic tub/shower enclosures look like what they are- cheap- in my opinion.

Post pictures.

Jim

 

[vacationhopeful]

Get a PAN for the shower stall floor. The walls are easy to tile. Buy a bag of the right size spacers for the tile, cement board (not the green board - too cheap and will age with water/dampness), the correct screws (big heads and metal content for cement boards), the right wall cement (and towel with deepness of trowel lines) ...

AND let EVERYTHING SET UP TO DRY before grouting. Then let the grout dry completely before installing the valve and faceplate for the shower controls.

And I ALWAYS tile to the ceilings--- looks so much better.

PORECLIEN tile has been my choice for the last several projects/years --- less chipping. (I manage rental units and supervise the work).

 

[natasha5687]

I disagree, Denise. Tiling a shower enclosure is a good DIY project. Just go to e-How dot com and get the step-by-step instructions. It is NOT a one afternoon project, but isn't physically difficult. You can rent (or borrow) a tile cutter and grout 'float' from a home center, and they may help with the measuring and layout. Porcelain/ceramic makes no difference. It's just preference of the style. I like the big 9" X 12" tiles, but that's just me. The most important item is where the first tile is set. Use a level and chalk line. Do not go out of a corner with full-size tiles.

Once you have it grouted, use silicone sealer on the grout lines (preferably annually) and the grout lines will stay looking new for years.

The option- of those plastic tub/shower enclosures look like what they are- cheap- in my opinion.

Post pictures.

Jim

Jim,

Thanks for the suggestion about the silicone and the first tile placement. We plan to use 12x12 tiles with a 4 inch glass tile accent around the center. Where would you suggest placement of the first tile be made? We have watched a few youtube videos and they seem to place them differently depending on who is doing the installation.

 

[vacationhopeful]

I suggest you go higher with your "accent" tile line. I usually do about shoulder height - after all who wants to see an "accent" strip at the belly button line.

I do NOT put in soap dishes or towel bars -- rental properties - as people use them as grab bars. If you decide to put in GRAB BARs - install 2x4 or 2x6 bracing studs (flat to the wall, into the wall vertical studs) to screw them into --- you want to support the elephant who is falling; not a bar of soap or a bath towel.

Planning and design makes the finish result both safe and pretty.

ADDED: Yes, the 12 by 12 inch tiles. I have used 4 inch by 4 inch tiles as my shoulder height accent pieces for my last job. Less grout lines than a 2": by 2" tiles. And the only place I like "cuts" to be are on the buried on the inside corners ... no diamond cuts for accent pieces. Lawsuits for cut fingers by renters.

 

[Passepartout]

Jim,

Thanks for the suggestion about the silicone and the first tile placement. We plan to use 12x12 tiles with a 4 inch glass tile accent around the center. Where would you suggest placement of the first tile be made? We have watched a few youtube videos and they seem to place them differently depending on who is doing the installation.

Second the shower pan & cement board. I like the big tiles. And the glass accents. Shoulder high. We cut 2" squares of granite and put them 'diamond on corner' at each intersection of the main field tiles just above and below that accent line. It takes a good bit of tile cutting, but you can set up a 'production line' and cut them all- granite corners and nipping the corners off your porcelain tiles quite quickly.

I place the first tile sort-of middlish so that when you get to the inside corners, you have to trim 1"-to 2" off, to hide any unsquareness of the walls.

Jim

 

[easyrider]

Jim,

Thanks for the suggestion about the silicone and the first tile placement. We plan to use 12x12 tiles with a 4 inch glass tile accent around the center. Where would you suggest placement of the first tile be made? We have watched a few youtube videos and they seem to place them differently depending on who is doing the installation.

Using large tiles makes this an easy project. The two side walls are layed out from the outer edge to the inside corner. The back wall layout is off the center of the back wall.

What most diy people forget is a vapor barrier behind the tile board. Without a barrier it is possible for moisture to penetrate the wall cavity, especially when one of the walls is part of an exterior wall.

Use epoxy grout. Its more expensive but you never have to reseal.

Bill

 

[WinniWoman]

We redid our master bathroom about 2 1/2 years ago- we had it professionally done. We were told that porcelain tile was the best- DO NOT use ceramic tile! Anyway, we took out the ol' prefab shower and had new waterproof sheet rock put in and then the tile. We tiled the entire thing with different size tiles- big on the walls, small on the floor and and medium on the ceiling. We used a tan grout, but the darker the better to help with the dirty grout issue. Don't use white! We put in a small corner ledge/bench to sit on- also tiled, a "cubby" to put shampoo and soap, etc. in-also tiled, and a chrome grab bar by the bench. We also installed a steam generator so we can take steam showers with essential oils. A recessed light in the shower ceiling was already there. We put in a frameless glass door with a small transcom on top to open or close, depending on whether or not we want to let steam out.

So far, we only have a few spots on the grout. But I am fanatical and we wipe our shower down with a towel after every shower.We did not seal it because we were told that once you do you have to seal it every year, and we don't need another thing on the home maintenance list every year. We have enough to do.

 

[vacationhopeful]

We ...had new waterproof sheet rock put in .....

Was it GREEN in the color facing YOU after it was installed on the walls and before the tile was set on it?

 

[slum808]

I suggest you go higher with your "accent" tile line. I usually do about shoulder height - after all who wants to see an "accent" strip at the belly button line.

Be careful with this statment. I learned the hard way. My installer and I settled on "shoulder height". When I came home to inspect the finished product, I noticed the accent a little lower than I expected it to be. When I went to speak to him about it I realized he's about 6" shorter than I am.

 

[WinniWoman]

Was it GREEN in the color facing YOU after it was installed on the walls and before the tile was set on it?

Yes- it was the green stuff.

 

[Passepartout]

When we designed our master BR shower, we put a shelf across the back wall to hold all the 'lotions and potions', and a small shelf about 15" above the floor opposite the shower outlet (we have Grohe stainless rod/hose/head setup). DW said, "Any woman will know what that shelf is for." I just build 'em.

Jim

 

[MuranoJo]

When we designed our master BR shower, we put a shelf across the back wall to hold all the 'lotions and potions', and a small shelf about 15" above the floor opposite the shower outlet (we have Grohe stainless rod/hose/head setup). DW said, "Any woman will know what that shelf is for." I just build 'em.

Jim

A raised shelf is great for shaving your legs in the shower, for one example.

We have a 10' floor-to-ceiling, corner, walk-in master bath shower with 4x4 mud-set tiles, floor to ceiling. What a pain to clean, until I got a good steam vapor cleaner.
However, the floor tiles are in serious need of re-grouting. I really wish we had gotten a floor pan instead. DH's recent attempt at DIY grouting convinces me I need to get a professional for that.

 

[WinniWoman]

A raised shelf is great for shaving your legs in the shower, for one example.

We have a 10' floor-to-ceiling, corner, walk-in master bath shower with 4x4 mud-set tiles, floor to ceiling. What a pain to clean, until I got a good steam vapor cleaner.
However, the floor tiles are in serious need of re-grouting. I really wish we had gotten a floor pan instead. DH's recent attempt at DIY grouting convinces me I need to get a professional for that.

Exactly. That is what I use the ledge/bench for, as well as sitting on it for the steam shower. It's a corner one and narrow, so you can't really lean back all the way, but it works.

 

[vacationhopeful]

Yes- it was the green stuff.

That is a version of DRYWALL - you most likely should SEAL your grout lines as dampness will deteriorate it (the green board) over time. Most contractors bid on PRICE and SPEED, will use green board UNLESS you insist on cement board. Cement board is GREY and rough --- it is cement. Plus, there is a special tape to go over its seams. And cement board is heavy, smaller pieces when brought and requires a electric tool to cut it. Green board is "snapped" like sheetrock with a razor knife slicing on the finish side. It is the same weight as sheetrock - maybe a $1 sheet more expensive. Using green board to tile a kitchen back splash is fine OR if you are putting put a manufacture tub surround.

Green board is NOT WATERPROOF - will act just like sheetrock if exposed to water or continued dampness. Should YOU rip it out today? No, but if it covered your "bench" or is holding a tiled in soap dish --- those will be the area which fail first. Dry off the bench when you get OUT of the shower - every time - might keep it sound a bit longer. Water, over time, made the Grand Canyon.

 

[jschmidt]

Check the John Bridge Tile Forum. They walk you through projects step by step. If you have any questions you can ask professionals for advice. I’ve done several showers, a tub surround and a floor. They turned out very nice and I’m not an expert.

 

[1st Class]

I prefer porcelain tile. Porcelain tile is harder and more durable than ceramic tile. Ceramic is prone to chipping and cracking.

 

[nightnurse613]

Gosh, it's like people are spying on me. When we got back from vacation we started on our kitchen remodel. Yesterday we were out shopping for tile!! (You know, it's not paranoia if they really are spying on you!) I got into a big argument with Lowe's because they mark their tile in square foot price but sell it by the piece (18x18)!:annoyed:

 

[WinniWoman]

That is a version of DRYWALL - you most likely should SEAL your grout lines as dampness will deteriorate it (the green board) over time. Most contractors bid on PRICE and SPEED, will use green board UNLESS you insist on cement board. Cement board is GREY and rough --- it is cement. Plus, there is a special tape to go over its seams. And cement board is heavy, smaller pieces when brought and requires a electric tool to cut it. Green board is "snapped" like sheetrock with a razor knife slicing on the finish side. It is the same weight as sheetrock - maybe a $1 sheet more expensive. Using green board to tile a kitchen back splash is fine OR if you are putting put a manufacture tub surround.

Green board is NOT WATERPROOF - will act just like sheetrock if exposed to water or continued dampness. Should YOU rip it out today? No, but if it covered your "bench" or is holding a tiled in soap dish --- those will be the area which fail first. Dry off the bench when you get OUT of the shower - every time - might keep it sound a bit longer. Water, over time, made the Grand Canyon.

Uh- gee- I am not feeling good right now. This bathroom cost us like $18,000 and no way will it get remodeled again (we are 58 and 60 and plan to sell no later than 10 years from now). We are lucky to get the rest of the house fixed up in the next few years with limited funds. Like I said, we do wipe it down every time we shower. Will think about sealing..

 

[Elan]

For the record, we have a tile shower (not sure if it's ceramic or porcelain tile), and we've never sealed the grout. It may have been sealed when new, but I don't remember the contractor mentioning sealing. After 12 years, it looks the same as the day it was built.

 

[PigsDad]

Uh- gee- I am not feeling good right now. This bathroom cost us like $18,000 and no way will it get remodeled again (we are 58 and 60 and plan to sell no later than 10 years from now). We are lucky to get the rest of the house fixed up in the next few years with limited funds. Like I said, we do wipe it down every time we shower. Will think about sealing..

Maybe some people have had problems with the green board, but if properly maintained it will be fine for years. We built a house in 1993, and all of the showers are still perfectly fine with the green board. We have had it sealed a few times, and some minor repair of the grout (not a complete re-grout) in the 20+years.

Despite what others may say, green board is different than regular drywall. While not waterproof, it is water resistant. Unless you have poorly maintained tile or a poorly designed shower where water will sit on top of tile and not drain, I would not worry about it.

Kurt

ETA: One thing I have learned from my tile guy is that you can ruin a tiled shower by doing too much caulking. If you caulk the bottom of the tile where it connects with the shower pan, you prevent the moisture from draining out of the grout (remember - grout is porous). A properly installed shower pan has a lip where the tile comes over the top of it, so any water will drain in the pan and not to the wall. Caulking can actually trap moisture behind the tiles and cause deterioration of the wall board.

 

[WinniWoman]

Maybe some people have had problems with the green board, but if properly maintained it will be fine for years. We built a house in 1993, and all of the showers are still perfectly fine with the green board. We have had it sealed a few times, and some minor repair of the grout (not a complete re-grout) in the 20+years.

Despite what others may say, green board is different than regular drywall. While not waterproof, it is water resistant. Unless you have poorly maintained tile or a poorly designed shower where water will sit on top of tile and not drain, I would not worry about it.

Kurt

Phew. Thanks for that. The contractor did a good job of "sloping" the floor tile towards the drain- even to the point of overkill- and the water comes down off the walls rather quickly after we shut it off. As I mentioned, we wipe it down every time- including the ceiling. Also, with the exception of the surface floor and top bench tiles, the other tiles (ceiling and walls) have very thin grout lines.

 

[vacationhopeful]

Uh- gee- I am not feeling good right now. This bathroom cost us like $18,000 and no way will it get remodeled again (we are 58 and 60 and plan to sell no later than 10 years from now). We are lucky to get the rest of the house fixed up in the next few years with limited funds. Like I said, we do wipe it down every time we shower. Will think about sealing..

Like I said, KNOWING what you have and maintaining it, IS WHAT IS IMPORTANT. Prevention is FAR, FAR cheaper than a big re-do (and also better than a repair that looks like a big repair).

And the comment is right about not caulking & trapping the water coming off the wall -- except you do not have a "pan" but a tiled base.

Did you see him use a RUBBERIZED MAT on the slope to the drain on the floor? The rubber mat should also have come up the wall 6+ inches. Would most likely have been a GREY rubber - about the weight of a bike tire tube (not the tire, but a bit heavier than a inside tire tube.