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Rome and Amalfi... with just the kids

Zac495

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So my husband lost and just found a new job. So our trip in 3 weeks is just me and the 3 kids (21, 17, 14). Mom meets us in Ravello 1/2 through the trip.

I'm nervous about everything in Rome. We're staying in a nice place in Traversti (sp?) Do I take the kids to Colleseum and Vatican? Or just one? How do I know which way to walk to find Narveno area - good food - not spend too much?

I'm nervous about the trip from Rome to Sorrento in a train without my husband.

Any thoughts? Thanks
Ellen
 
Ellen, buy a Roma Pass http://www.romapass.it/p.aspx?l=en&tid=2 for each of you. Get it at the airport or train station magazine stand. It is timed for the number of days you want and starts the first time you use it. It gets you into the priority lines at the Colosseum (including the 'new' underground) and the Capitoline (The greatest Museum 2000 years ago and still is). The first 2 museums are free and all the rest are discounted. It is a bus/metro pass and has great maps and hints. We enjoyed a lap of the city on the red open-top buses to get the 'lay-of-the-land.' We found a great guide outfit for the Vatican Museum/Sistine in here: http://www.italy.artviva.com/location/9/rome_italy We had first used them in Florence. Recommended by Rick Steves and Michael Palin.

You'll be fine. Everyone speaks English, but when you enter a shop, always say, "Boun Gourno" and "Ciao" when you leave.

Trenitalia is a crummy site, but you can buy your fast train tix to Naples either online or in person. The Vesuviana to Pompeii and Sorrento is a milk run, in summer overrun with American backpackers. Be sure to see the Archeological Museum in Naples first, because that's where the good stuff from Pompeii was taken. Get a guide to Pompeii at the gate. (about 10 Euros) We had a Prof of Archeology.

Sorry your DH won't be there, but next time you go, you'll be able to guide him. Nobody just goes to Italy once. Especially if you invest a few coins at the Trevi Fountain.

Jim
 
Ellen, buy a Roma Pass http://www.romapass.it/p.aspx?l=en&tid=2 for each of you. Get it at the airport or train station magazine stand. It is timed for the number of days you want and starts the first time you use it. It gets you into the priority lines at the Colosseum (including the 'new' underground) and the Capitoline (The greatest Museum 2000 years ago and still is). The first 2 museums are free and all the rest are discounted. It is a bus/metro pass and has great maps and hints. We enjoyed a lap of the city on the red open-top buses to get the 'lay-of-the-land.' We found a great guide outfit for the Vatican Museum/Sistine in here: http://www.italy.artviva.com/location/9/rome_italy We had first used them in Florence. Recommended by Rick Steves and Michael Palin.

You'll be fine. Everyone speaks English, but when you enter a shop, always say, "Boun Gourno" and "Ciao" when you leave.

Trenitalia is a crummy site, but you can buy your fast train tix to Naples either online or in person. The Vesuviana to Pompeii and Sorrento is a milk run, in summer overrun with American backpackers. Be sure to see the Archeological Museum in Naples first, because that's where the good stuff from Pompeii was taken. Get a guide to Pompeii at the gate. (about 10 Euros) We had a Prof of Archeology.

Sorry your DH won't be there, but next time you go, you'll be able to guide him. Nobody just goes to Italy once. Especially if you invest a few coins at the Trevi Fountain.

Jim
Oh no - I just bought 4 tickets to the Colosseum for 27 dollars each - includes all of the sites in the area for one day.

We can't decide about the Vatican. Should we go? No one is religious so there's no pull there -but maybe it's great? We arrive Sunday - figure we'll wander the city. Then we go to the Colesseum Tuesday . Wed? Thurs we leave for Sorrento.

I want to walk to the Trevi fountain - see the Pantheon - what should we do? Should we do Vatican?
 
Also we're staying in a decent area -
ROME-Hotel Residence Palazzo al Velabro
Via del Velabro, 16
Rome, 00186
Telephone: 01139066792758 Fax: 01139066793790

We will go straight to Sorrento to our hotel - we won't go to the museum in Naples. The hotel has a pool overlooking the sea - something we like to do. We'll wander Sorrento for 2 days then get my mom in Naples (she flies in from France). Then we head to a villa in Ravello for 7 nights. we'll visit Paestum and Pompeii from there, I suppose.
 
Also we're staying in a decent area -
ROME-Hotel Residence Palazzo al Velabro
Via del Velabro, 16
Rome, 00186
Telephone: 01139066792758 Fax: 01139066793790

We will go straight to Sorrento to our hotel - we won't go to the museum in Naples. The hotel has a pool overlooking the sea - something we like to do. We'll wander Sorrento for 2 days then get my mom in Naples (she flies in from France). Then we head to a villa in Ravello for 7 nights. we'll visit Paestum and Pompeii from there, I suppose.

Ellen,
Roma's train station is huge. You will want to make seat reservations in ADVANCE to Naples. You can probably get your Naples-Sorrento tickets when you arrive but perhaps someone else has more current information.

I found a webpage online that provided step by step details prior to our last trip in 2009. You will arrive in Naples. You want with your luggage toward the front. You turn LEFT toward the train that goes from Naples to Sorrento.

Sometimes people come up to try to help you. They want tips to carry your luggage and wait in line for the tickets for the other train (which I believe is run by another company).

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herculanum is one of the stops en route that you will probably want to go back to for a day.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pompeii is larger BUT less well preserved. You'll probably want to go to both.

Ferries to Capri leave from Sorrento.
 
Well, there's 'museum' folks and there's 'beach' folks. We are 'museum' folks. So the Vatican was important. Now understand that there aren't many less religious people than we are, but as a repository of art, it's hard to beat. Arguably the greatest collection of art anywhere in the world. And it really takes a guide to not get overwhelmed by it. I read that if you spend just 5 minutes in front of each artwork, the Vatican Museum will take 2 years to get through. Michaelangelo's, Caravaggio's, Alexander The Great's carved jade sarcophagus. 12th century tapestries. The sistine chapel alone is worth the price of admission. We thought it was important, but I can see how teens would not be impressed.

Too bad about you paying for Colosseum admission, but if you will be in Rome 3 days, you can still get your value from the 30 Euro RomaPass.

It will be a great trip. Save Spanish Steps/Trevi Fountain for an evening. Pizza at a sidewalk cafe in that neighborhood is pretty cool.

Jim
 
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So my husband lost and just found a new job. So our trip in 3 weeks is just me and the 3 kids (21, 17, 14). Mom meets us in Ravello 1/2 through the trip.

I'm nervous about everything in Rome. We're staying in a nice place in Traversti (sp?) Do I take the kids to Colleseum and Vatican? Or just one? How do I know which way to walk to find Narveno area - good food - not spend too much?

I'm nervous about the trip from Rome to Sorrento in a train without my husband.

Any thoughts? Thanks
Ellen

Don't worry! Enjoy! One of your kids is already 21 and the others are teenagers. They will support you. When I was 18 I went by myself and I was allright.

I agree with Jim that the Vatican is not to be missed. I consider it the main attraction of Rome: the Sistine Chapel, the Vatican Museum, even the Vatican gardems, and of course the St Peter and all the surrounding area.

It will be fun. And indeed there are often so many Americans in Italy, you will get around! I remember a popular place with good food near to the Spanish steps which was frequented by several Americans. Not very expensive but authentic food, like the fried zucchini flowers and the fried artichokes, but I can't remember the name.
 
Buy a Rick Steves guidebook for Rome. It have good tips for sightseeing, tours and restaurants.

I agree with the advice to watch out for the "helpers" at the Naples train station. Hopefully, you are packing light as they prey on those who appear to be struggling. Just politely say, "No, thank you," and stop at an information booth if you need help finding the local train to Sorrento.

Sorrento is a great place for strolling ... You're going to love it!
 
Being a tourist is a timeless tradiation for the locals as well as us from the new world. As a woman, I have gone multiple times over the pond with idiots who would give make the Ugly American seem like a sensitive guy (I did let the one fellow spend several hours in the police station, but he did find his way back to the hotel - fare jumping on the subway).

You will find many teenagers travelling with friends their age - so don't look for their parents. Pack very light; dresses verses jeans; no printed tee shirts. Dress up verses down (Americans are just too causal in their appearance). And remember, Coke is expensive.
 
About the Vatican -- You simply must go.
You can either line up an hour before opening, along with a ton of other tourists, or you can wait until 90 minutes after opening and walk right in and join the crowd. The Sistine Chapel should not be missed by any living soul who ever has the chance to go.

Rome is imminently walkable, but in certain areas, like around the Colosseum, be prepared to child pic-pockets and not carry anything in outerwear that might easily be lifted.
 
For major city-city tickets in Italy, there is no need to buy a ticket in advance. There is a train almost every hour from rome-naples. Just get a ticket a day or so ahead, if you want to be assured of a particular train--you can get at the train station, or from any travel agent in rome (there are many--just walk in). The price should be the same as at the train station. since you are going in the summer, you want the faster train vs. the slow local train.
We try to walk to most spots--to see the sights and to avoid pickpockets (on the subway and local buses). As you have navigated thru Spain and Greece on prior trips, Rome will be no big deal. I have been to Rome 3X the past 5 years (most recent last Aug.). I felt totally safe--just don't be stupid---don't open your purse unnecessarily and keep it secured with an elbow against it. I prefer a tote bag vs. a backpack.
You are probably taking the local Circumvesia train from Naples-Sorrento. It's a sort of gritty local train with lots of local flavor---but we felt totally safe and found many helpful Italians onboard. The Circumvesia does have pickpockets (as most tourists take it to Pompeii), but we didn't encouter any. I would not walk around Naples.
Lastly, after navigating the Circumvensia, you might want to take it back to Pompeii and even further up to Herculano (sp?)if you have time--both sites are outstanding.
I would not hesitate to take my tweens/teens to Rome and Sorrento alone. Have a great trip---and great news about your hubby's job! Elaine
 
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About the Vatican -- You simply must go.
You can either line up an hour before opening, along with a ton of other tourists, or you can wait until 90 minutes after opening and walk right in and join the crowd. The Sistine Chapel should not be missed by any living soul who ever has the chance to go.

In 2008 we only had one day near Rome while on a World Cruise stop. IF we had known, we would have gladly PAID for a GUIDE that if I understand correctly can get you in via a DIFFERENT LINE.

Some people try to get in early, get to the Sistene Chapel EARLY (which can easily be over half an hour or more walking but not stopping as you pass incredible stuff. THEN you can enjoy the murals at the Sistene Chapel with less people THEN work your way BACK.

Expect crowds ANY DAY. I had been to St. Peter's in Vatican City before but Ken's first time was in 2009. Try to get updated information about some of the choices. I believe one line leads you to pay extra to walk along the area close to the inside dome. We didn't go into that line. The tombs for deceased popes etc is connected. I can't remember how we got from inside St. Peter's to that area. Perhaps someone else can provide very specific and current information.

Rome is a very big city. We felt safe. Naples/Sorrento is safe enough for our standards too but we have NO FEAR when we travel. Your time in Sorrento/Naples will go quickly and there are a lot of options. Depending on the time of day when you go to the Naples airport to pick up your mom you will might stop on the train for Pompeii or Herculeum. If she is returning with you to spend the night in Sorrento you might want to go to the dock, take the ferry to Capri, then the ferry to Sorrento.

Best wishes and congratulations to your husband on his new job!
 
IMO it's such a hassle to go by train with bags and 3 kids from Rome to Sorrento. I suggest you consider getting limo info from Drive Amalfi - I used them a few years back and, while not cheap, you get a tour and direct ride to Sorrento. I also hired them for a day to drive us around the Amalfi coast (don't try it on your own). Our driver was Salvatore .. very nice man with good Englsh.

http://www.driveamalfi.com/

You have hotel booked already...when I was in Sorrento we stayed at the Hilton Palace..wonderful view and pools...lemon trees all around us and the smell was heavenly. http://www.virtualtourist.com/hotel...ons-Sorrento-Hilton_Sorrento_Palace-BR-1.html

The Sorrento drink is wonderful: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limoncello

Blue Grotto on Capri is a must see too: http://www.tripadvisor.ca/Attractio...Tours-Naples_Province_of_Naples_Campania.html

Suggest you watch 'Only You' movie on Netflix with the kids. Takes you from Venice to Rome to Sorrento. I love Italy...and you won't have a bad meal the whole trip.

Don't miss the Vatican...I'm not Catholic but the art is wonderful. Italy is a country of history, art, wine and food. Don't miss any of it.

Finally...here are some free Rick Steves audio tours in Rome you can download and listen to before you go or as you tour.

http://www.ricksteves.com/news/travelnews/0602/italy-audio-tours.htm

Brian
 
There is a Hilton Resort in Sorrento. This might be a good time to use some of your HHonors points.
 
I'd suggest going to the library and getting a book on the Sistene Chapel. Thumb through it, note what it's all about, what the major scenes depicted are and where to look for them: center, sides, etc. If you don't, you're likely to join the thousands who crane their necks back to survey the ceiling---which is a long way from where the tourist is standing. You won't see detail, even if your eyes are young and good; if they aren't, it's hopeless. IMO, if you don't know at least a little bit before you go, you'll be un-impressed and think it looks like a very decorated ceiling.

Be aware, too, that the Vatican contains other world famous museums: Egyptian museum, etc. It isn't JUST the Sistene Chapel and the 1/2 mile of virgins/babes/and saints.

If art isn't your thing, Rick Steves' guide is a good one for you. It points out the major points and moves you along. Don't miss the Pieta in St. Peter's. Again, IMO, it can make even those who know/care nothing about art, weep.
 
Ellen,

I took my youngest son (18) to Rome for spring break his senior year. I'd been there the year before with DH so I had a good idea of the things we wanted to see.

DS loved it! Probably his favorite trip of all time. We went to the Vatican the day before Easter and it was packed with people. Lines to get into St. Peter's were probably 7 hours and didn't seem to be moving. So we came back later in the week and spent some time there. DS was very impressed! On another day we paid to enter the museums and see the Sistine Chapel. It was a highlight of the trip. We aren't Catholic but it was certainly worthwhile.

We walked around in the rain on Easter Sunday and were able to attend a wonderful service in the Pantheon. Couldn't understand the service but the music was beautiful. Hm....maybe that was the highlight.

We also loved the Colosseum and Forum, probably spent a whole day exploring there. The Roma Pass was a lifesaver with the long lines (Easter week).

Your children will always remember the amazing sites in Rome! Stay safe and watch out for pick-pockets. Tell the kids to keep an eye on each other & all the belongings. If somebody seems somebody getting too close or acting strange, speak up! Have fun!
 
http://www.romapass.it -

Ellen,We also loved the Colosseum and Forum, probably spent a whole day exploring there. The Roma Pass was a lifesaver with the long lines (Easter week).

http://www.romapass.it/p.aspx?l=en&tid=2 - If I recall it is to your advantage to go to the MOST expensive places first.

We used our RomaPass at a less expensive http://www.gardenvisit.com/garden/villa_adriana_hadrians_villa_garden in the outskirts and only received a discount for the Forum/Coliseum. If we had gone to the Forum first or paid cash for the Hadrian garden we would have been better off.
 
The first 2 museums are free admission, then discounted. So yes, do 2 spendy ones first on the RomaCard

Jim
 
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A lot of museums are closed on Monday. If you decide to buy the Roma Pass (and without the Colosseum it may not be worth it to you), make sure that you don't buy it on Saturday or Sunday--as we did--and therefore, lose one day of its value. We were told that the best use of the pass would be for the Colosseum and the Borghese Mansion because those are the two most expensive tickets, but you've already purchased the Colosseum ticket, so it really might not work out to save you any money.

The Borghese is one of our favorite museums--right up there with Musee Jacquemart-Andre in Paris. It's eclectic and small enough that it really is quite manageable.

Also, make a trip to see the view of St. Peter's through the Knights of Malta key hole. It's free, and it's absolutely beautiful when the dome is lit at night.
http://www.reidsitaly.com/destinations/lazio/rome/sights/knights_malta.html

I think the kids would enjoy the catacombs of the Ancient Apian Way. You can take a city bus 218 out to see them and a city bus back. The same bus will let you off for a short walk to an aquaduct if you're interested. http://goitaly.about.com/od/thingstodoinitaly/a/catacombs.htm

We find that when we're in Rome--or anywhere else in Europe for that matter--we have to limit our church/cathedral viewing or else they all start looking alike and we aren't capable of appreciating what we should. That said, one of the most impressive, for us, in Rome is Santa Maria Maggiore
http://goitaly.about.com/od/romeandvaticancity/ig/Santa-Maria-Maggiore-Pictures/

We were also really impressed by the mosiacs i Santa Maria in Trastevere
http://www.sacred-destinations.com/italy/rome-santa-maria-in-trastevere. Again, if you see it at night, you're in for a treat. For a coin in the electric box, you'll see spectacular illumination----everything is gold. It's magnificient.

There are a number of good, non-tourist places to eat in the area around Santa Maria in Trastevere and Santa Maria Maggiore--they are close together.
 
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Oh wow - what a wealth of info. I bought Rick Steves book on Rome and Amalfi.

We land in Rome on Sunday the 1st and leave for Sorrento the 4th so maybe the Roma pass isn't worth it since I already paid for the tickets to Coliseum.

You convinced me on Vatican - so help me - should I prepay tickets for the main sights? I think tripadvisor said some are better with prepay?

Our tickets for the Coliseum are for Monday the 2nd.

If you had to write an itinerary for me, what would you write? Remember though we're taking your advice on the Vatican, what we love the most is wandering the streets and little shops. Oh and I don't want to miss the Pantheon so include that! THANKS :))

I did think about a limo, but it would be 350 euro. I think the hassle will be worth the savings...
 
Okay, I will start:

-- Stroll down Via del Corso, especially at night
-- Print maps (or probably in Rick Steves book) to all the major fountains - I think they're best at night also)
-- As someone suggested above, take a full trip on the red bus on the first day
 
You may have already seen this but Rick Steves has suggested itineraries for Rome in 1 day- to 5 days here: http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/destinations/italy/rome3.htm If you have an iPhone, iPod or iPad, he also has free apps for DIY walking tours here: http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/rick-steves-audio-europe/id414357125?mt=8 I found them handy to watch/listen to before heading out each morning. Sometimes his approach is 'go here, see this, go to the next highlight, see that' rather than allowing you to just drink in the atmosphere of the place, but no doubt you will see the most 'important' sights using his guides then can dig deeper into the culture later after you've had time to digest what you have seen.

I'm excited for you. Be sure you get the kids involved in the trip planning too.

Jim
 
Use the buses or the subway rail system as your way to get around and everything seems relatively close. It's also great for sightseeing. We mainly used the subway.

The Pantheon and Piazza Navona are close together. You can eat and shop at the plaza.

800px-Piazza_Navona%2C_Rome%2C_Italy_in_2006.jpg


And if you want to really cover some ground, you can walk from Piazza Navona to the Pantheon on to the Trevi Fountains and then to the Spanish Steps. It's really not that far at all.
 
When we went to Italy, we were on tours, but you've gotten great info on getting around, so please don't be nervous. It will be a glorious trip for you, I know.
The Amalfi Coast is a spectacular drive, with breathtaking views. I found Sorrento to be lovely. When we were there we took a boat trip across to Capri.
Ravello is another memorable spot, with amazing views.
Maybe, after this trip, you and your DH will plan another, to Tuscany. That area needs a trip all by itself.
Enjoy Italy, even the crowds at the vatican, and the walk down the steps to the Trevi fountain.
Thanks for bringing back those memories. :D
 
Sunday, when you land, probably won't be a great sightseeing day for you--so why not make it a "wandering day" and a people-watching day? You need to see some of the piazzas, and obviously, you can't see even this list of top 10, but some of them might appeal to you: http://www.letsgo.com/article/2807-rome-s-top-10-piazzas)

My choice would be to take the public bus (Rick Steves tells you which number to take) to Campo Fiori. It's only a block from Campo Navona, so you can do both with the same trip and wander in a leisurely manner. I love Campo Fiore because it's a market-square. You can buy a bottle of wine, a scarf--even a vegetable peeler as I wound up doing.

Campo dei Fiori, Between P. Farnese and C. Vittorio Emanuele Cushioned between stately Palazzo Farnese one block away and the busy C. Vittorio Emanuele, Campo dei Fiori is an enclosed world of its own where students, merchants, nighttime revelers, and performers make it their home. At its center, the somewhat ominous statue of a cloaked Giordano Bruno towers above the crowds. Aside from his imposing figure, street mimes clad in ridiculous garb are the only other even remotely statuesque shapes around. During the day, check out the market where merchants sell everything from _fish to fresh produce to valcohol to clothes (M-Sa 7am-2:30pm). At night, the Campo is literally abuzz with the chatter of diners, while the clink of wine glasses and the thumping of a few disco-like clubs add to the jocular clatter of this happening center for city life. From P. Navona, head towards C. Vittorio Emanuele and cut straight across to Campo dei Fiori. Watch your valuables at night. Free. Wheelchair access. Has outdoor seating.


Read more: http://www.letsgo.com/10337-italy-t...and_activities-centro_storico-c#ixzz1xsUckRcb

There are lots of places to eat there. We went several times to the same one because we loved it. As you face the part of the square where you entered, go (as if you were leaving) to the left, instead of the right where you came in). The first restaurant that is "fully on" that street to the left you would be leaving on, not partially on the square itself, is the one. It's right across from a museum. Anyway, the prices were lower than those on the square, and we loved it. We particularly loved the pizza with ham, corn, and a cream sauce. It sounds odd, and my pepperoni-loving husband was leary of it, but it was outstanding. Outstanding enough that returned twice.

After eating, go back to the square and exit where you came in. Walk a block and you'll be in Piazza Navona----fountains, maybe street performers, good people watching.

You can then catch the same public bus you arrived on.

That day would be a good one to see the Pantheon, and it's easily reachable from Piazza Navona. Rick will tell you how.

Go to the Pantheon--it doesn't take long to see even though it is great. On the walk between Trevi Fountain and the Pantheon, you'll find Rick's favorite gelato stop. We returned more times than we should have. We also tried his second favorite, and while good, it wasn't as good as the one close to the Pantheon.

For an arrival day, I suspect that will be enough, and it will let you wander, people watch, eat, and see a sight or so.

Unlike others, I'm not a fan of the hop on, hop off buses; I like absorbing the local flavor a bit more.

On Sunday, you'll see the Col. When you exit the Col., you'll be looking right at the Forum. You used to be able to enter the Forum there, but you no longer can. You'll have to go to the street and walk on the sidewalk up to the entrance. Be sure to note the big maps of the Roman Empire on the way. You'll enter the Forum at about the half way mark. Unless Rick has changed his guide tour, he starts by the Col. , not in the middle, so you'll have to re-orient.

If it were me, I'd pick and choose from what's around there--and there's a lot--rather than heading off (with the possible exception of heading for the catacombs on the Apian Way, again using the public bus). Rick mentions a student eatery close to the Col. We ate there a couple of times; it was good. It's "around the corner" from the main street and up a block and a half or maybe two.

On Monday, you'll see the Vatican. After that, I suspect you'll want a change of pace. That might be a good time to go to the Catacombs on the Apian Way. Be sure both you and the kids have some knowledge of what you'll be seeing in the Sistene Chapel so you appreciate it.

I think if you want more wandering time, that's about all you'll have time for without feeling like you had a check list and marked items off as you went.
 
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