# At what mileage would you expect a car to start having major issues?



## boyblue (Jul 17, 2013)

I drive a 1996 Toyota Mark II, it's a JDM (a car bought after use in Japan - Japanese Domestic Market).  The car has served me well but it's time to retire it.  The car is now at 198,000 km (123,000 miles) There are now some issues with oil seals so I figure It's time to get something else.  

I'm now looking at the Toyota Verossa







I'm buying it used so I'm wondering what mileage should I buy at, and how much trouble free miles am I likely to get out of it?   I'm thinking about capping it at 50,000 miles - 60,000 if there is a big price difference.  I was probably lucky with the Mark II but I'm figuring I should get to 100,000 without any major issues - especially now that I know about synthetic oils


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## timeos2 (Jul 17, 2013)

Our last three cars all hit 225,000 miles or more (one was 298,000 - one 258,000 & the third 228,000 but killed by an accident). We never put a repair of over $700, except for tires, on any of them. The way that most better brand cars are built today 200k miles should be considered a minimum with just regular care. 

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## stoler527 (Jul 17, 2013)

*Maintenance*

Our Toyota Camry has about 270,000 miles. The mechanic says it could go to 350,000. It is a little rough, but we have never had a major repair. I think that the key to longevity is consistent oil changes. If buying a used car, I would ask about maintenance before buying. Poor maintenance equates to shorter car life.


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## Passepartout (Jul 18, 2013)

Your Bahamian climate could account for a shorter lifespan. In continental US, we commonly expect 200-300,000 miles with no major mechanical issues. Especially with Japanese models. The key is maintenance. Change oil & filters between 5-6,000 miles- 8-10,000 km. More frequently if you do little long distance driving (100 or more miles at 60+ mph- 100kmph)

We like salt air and sea breezes, but our cars don't. Bodies rust, electrical components fail. Interiors rot. Not much you can do about it except wax, and store dry and inside.

Jim


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## GregT (Jul 18, 2013)

It really bums me out, because my 2004 Volvo S80 T6 only has 120K miles on it, and yet I'm start to get gremlins with the electronics and with the transmission.  

The Volvo service guys have told me there were transmission issues with this model, and they would be surprised to see it last 150K-175k miles.

I really dislike car payments and I've taken great care of this car --- I'd counted on 10 more years from it!!

Oh well...sorry to vent...

Best,

Greg


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## TUGBrian (Jul 18, 2013)

would expect them to last significantly longer than 150k miles if properly maintained and not abused.


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## VacationForever (Jul 18, 2013)

It depends on the make of the car.  Two of my BMWs had major issues, one had gremlins at 5,000 miles which I almost turned in for a lemon, it was brought in 5 times with "check engine light" and they kept it for a week at time without identifying the root cause.  Unfortunately it was after a year when I thought about invoking the lemon law and I was past the time limit. They finally found the problem and that car had a bunch more serious problems (serious water leak, electronics and GPS stopped working).  Dumped it after about 3 years. Another BMW had major issues which happened at about 40,000 miles.  Every type of imaginable error lit up one after another over the course of 2 weeks in which all of them had warnings of not to drive anymore and were supposed to be taken in immediately.  Each time the dealership said they did not know the cause, reset the error and returned the car to me.  With 4 errors and I saw the car a total of less than 24 hrs over the 2-week period as each time the car was towed back in, I headed to the Subaru dealership and bought a car and waited for the dealership to tell me the car was ready for pick up.  I drove the BMW down to CarMax hoping that one of the lights did not come on again.  I sold it as quickly as I could.  

We are a family of Subarus now and so far so good.


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## tompalm (Jul 18, 2013)

Buying a used car with 50,000 miles on it makes it difficult to be certain about the future.  You never know how well the prior owner took care of it. You should be ok, but do your homework with getting it checked by a mechanic and a carfax done.  Research using consumer reports and google the car online to see if there are any problems with that model.  You should be ok if you check all resources.


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## x3 skier (Jul 18, 2013)

I always buy new and keep 10+ years. My Jeep GC is a 2003 and the BMW X3 is a 2005. The Jeep had a couple of minor issues with A/C and the BMW one under warranty for the instrument cluster. Other than that, no problems. 

I would not buy a used car unless it was a Certified Pre Owned or whatever the dealer calls an extended warranty deal. Things can get screwed up in the first couple of years by bad maintenance and bite you later. 50-60K miles is a lot of time for someone to skimp on oil changes and othe routine items. 

Cheers


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## simpsontruckdriver (Jul 18, 2013)

That's the key... CERTIFIED PRE-OWNED. A 2010 car with 36000 miles is most likely used and not abused. It also comes with a warranty. As good as new!

TS


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## laura1957 (Jul 18, 2013)

I drive a 1995 Subaru Outback that I bought 7-8 years ago cheap.  The previous owner was at least the 3rd owner of this car.  This is what I drive to work everyday - terrible parking lot, didnt want to drive a "good" car  This old beat-up junk car now has 200000+ miles and I have not had anything done except tires, alternator and brake service.  Not bad for $2500. 

My "good" car is a 2001 Honda Odyssey van with 192000 miles.  Purchased when it was 49000 miles 9 years from Honda dealer, certified pre-owned - have never done anything but regular recommended maintenace.

Just purchased in March a 2003 Subaru Baja with 99000 miles, paid 10500 -  just because I have always wanted one   Checked the carfax, one owner, obviously garage kept, had ALL the maintenace records...  have taken on road trip with my daughters to Nashville, and then with my hubby to Georgia - I love it!!   

Both the Odyssey and the Baja I expect to last for years  If the Outback dies tomorrow I will have already gotten much more use out of it than I expected.


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## Phydeaux (Jul 18, 2013)

Too many variables to predict longevity.

Some key things to keep in mind when buying pre-owned in my opinion are:

1. One owner
2. The one owner can show you all service records. Since they bought the car. Everything.
3. How the vehicle was broken in. (I never see this one commented on, and it's one of the single most important factors on engine life).
4. The owner. Is he/she trustworthy? Why are they selling?
5. Take someone more knowledgable than you to look at it and test drive it.
6. Get a pre-purchase inspection.


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## Timeshare Von (Jul 18, 2013)

I once had a 1988 Plymouth Reliant that I had to drive for a field rep job and I got it to right at 200k miles before trading it in (1993).

Our current vehicles are both 2003's . . . a Pontiac Montana van we bought new that has 103k on it and a Chrysler Sebring Convertible that was bought as a certified car that had been a rental in Las Vegas.  The convertible had 20k on when we bought it and was just over a year old.  It also has just over 100k on it today.

Both have run like a top, only requiring tires and routine maintenance.  The Sebring will probably need a new top next year however.

I would love to drive both to 200k only because I hate making car payments!


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## kwindham (Jul 18, 2013)

I hate hate hate car payments!  My 07 Yukon was drove off the lot with 3 miles on it, it now has 144,000 and so far no major problems.  It still rides like a Cadillac.  My hubby's 06 GMC sierra HD diesel was also brand new, and now has 120,000, and will still jerk a house off of its blocks if needed, but the 4x4 has only been used a couple times and it has never been "mud hogging".  Last year I bought me a 03 vw beetle convertible as a "toy" (have wanted one all my life but wasn't really sensible when I had small kids)  It had 90,000 and now has 100,000.  Will need a new top soon but the only other problem I have had was it needed a new radiator a couple months ago.  Its not my primary ride, just my "fun" ride to scoot around town in.  I fully expect to get 200,000 at least from both of my gmc's.  We maintain them and take care of them.


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## ampaholic (Jul 18, 2013)

I have taken three Mercedes Benz's over 200K and 1 over 300K all without incident and all purchased at about 60K - 75K (seems to be when they get more affordable).

I don't put on the miles now like I used to - but if I did I would look at the best engineered car in the world!

For my commute now (3 miles each way) I ride a 1999 Toyota Camry with 198K and counting - it acts like it will go 250K easy, but who knows?

It's like predicting roulette


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## bogey21 (Jul 18, 2013)

I remember when I used to think that 100,000 miles was a nice target for a car (late 40s, early 50s).  Today I'm thinking around 250,000 miles.    

George


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## csxjohn (Jul 18, 2013)

I've seen frequent oil changes mentioned in this thread with is very true.

The other significant thing to keep up on is engine coolant/anti-freeze.  Watch the level and get it changed when suggested, it does wear out.


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## ampaholic (Jul 18, 2013)

csxjohn said:


> I've seen frequent oil changes mentioned in this thread with is very true.
> 
> The other significant thing to keep up on is engine coolant/anti-freeze.  Watch the level and get it changed when suggested, it does wear out.



Very important - and to get maximum mileage from any automatic trans have it serviced at regular intervals.

My MB's were always up to date on their under car service including full flush changes of the trans fluid every 40K.


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## carl2591 (Jul 18, 2013)

ampaholic said:


> I have taken three Mercedes Benz's over 200K and 1 over 300K all without incident and all purchased at about 60K - 75K (seems to be when they get more affordable).
> 
> I don't put on the miles now like I used to - but if I did I would look at the best engineered car in the world!
> 
> ...




THREE MILES and you drive that.. why not ride a bike?? three miles is worse on a car than anything you can do.. it does not get up to temp and the oil get a lot of moisture inside the engine.  look at the oil filler cap,, i bet is all junked up with sludge.. see it all the time in used cars with owners that are 1. slack on oil changes,, 2. drive short distances a couple time a day. 

gums them up inside quick..


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## Passepartout (Jul 18, 2013)

I like the way all of you are talking... especially with the Toyotas. DW's '05 Prius just flipped over 80K and my '10 Tundra shows about 35K. They will be around a while longer. Not a nickel has been spent on anything but maintenance on either of them.


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## persia (Jul 18, 2013)

Depends, GMC seemed to be approximately 50 miles or 3 days past the end of warrantee.  They had it down to a science.


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## carl2591 (Jul 18, 2013)

persia said:


> Depends, GMC seemed to be approximately 50 miles or 3 days past the end of warrantee.  They had it down to a science.



if appears the newer ones,, ie 2005 and later are now at 200 miles or 30 days past warrenty. quite a leap in quality it might add..  

a lot depends on the car and how it maintained and operated. The best car in the hands of a hard accelerating, non oil changeling fool will not last. 

same with a car that consumers union shows a "do not buy" can be a good/decent car with proper care and modest driving.


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## SmithOp (Jul 18, 2013)

carl2591 said:


> THREE MILES and you drive that.. why not ride a bike?? three miles is worse on a car than anything you can do.. it does not get up to temp and the oil get a lot of moisture inside the engine.  look at the oil filler cap,, i bet is all junked up with sludge.. see it all the time in used cars with owners that are 1. slack on oil changes,, 2. drive short distances a couple time a day.
> 
> gums them up inside quick..



My Dad had a Chrysler Cordoba he drove 5 miles to the office, the engine didnt get up to temp, fouled the plugs and wouldn't start, many times.  He hated that car.


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## ricoba (Jul 18, 2013)

SmithOp said:


> My Dad had a Chrysler Cordoba he drove 5 miles to the office, the engine didnt get up to temp, fouled the plugs and wouldn't start, many times.  He hated that car.



Yeah, but heck, it had "soft Corinthian leather"!


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## Mosca (Jul 18, 2013)

Heck, three years and I'm tired of 'em.


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## glypnirsgirl (Jul 19, 2013)

Almost 2 years ago, I was contemplating something similar. My 2001 Honda Civic GX (natural gas, not gasoline, not hybrid) had total engine failure. I sought advice on this forum and it was recommended that we go ahead and buy a new car ---- which we did, a Honda Fit, brand new.

When we were going over to sign the title on the Civic, I asked my husband if we could go ahead and fix it also --- after we just bought the new car. I continued driving the Civic for another year and a half. Then I discovered the Ipod interface on the Fit! I drive it now so that I can do my Spanish on my commute. 

Ian drives the Civic. We sold our other car, a 2006 Chevrolet Cobalt that we bought because one of our friend's son was going into the Air Force and needed to get out from under the car payment. 

We have put another 55K miles on the Civic since the $5500 repair. So, now we are down to 10 cents per mile. I figure that we are doing well. 

Have you looked at getting your current car fixed?

elaine


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## simpsontruckdriver (Jul 19, 2013)

If buying a brand new car, the BEST down payment - if you must finance - is 50%. That way, when you trade it in after 3 years, you will get money back! But, if you want to pay less down, do not trade it in until you've paid it off. If you think you'll trade it in when trade-in-value = equity (break even), you won't enjoy the car, always wondering when you'll break even. For a 72 month car payment, your break-even will be somewhere around 48-60 months.

For instance, in 2007, I financed with $2000 down 1.6% APR 72 months, a 2007 Chevrolet Silverado 1LT extended cab. It had the 4.8L V8, which put out 1hp per cubic inch (296 CID = 296 HP), payments were $475/month. Then, around 2010, I simply wasn't making enough to cover the payments, and it was repo'd. I tried trading it in, but at around 36 months, I was $3000 "in the hole". If I was able to keep it another 8 months, I may have broke even.

I now drive a 2002 Cadillac Deville (bought in January) with 80000 miles. I had to finance it, but it will be paid off in 12 months. I inherited about $600 in repairs, but other than needing a transmission solenoid and a cigarette lighter, it runs perfectly.


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## boyblue (Jul 19, 2013)

glypnirsgirl said:


> We have put another 55K miles on the Civic since the $5500 repair. So, now we are down to 10 cents per mile. I figure that we are doing well.
> 
> Have you looked at getting your current car fixed?
> 
> elaine


I will probably have it repaired eventually but it's one of those quart of oil every two weeks vs $1,500.00 deals  I am going to keep it; it'll be a back up or a car I can loan out.

The car is going to be imported from Japan where they have the stringent bi-annual _Shaken_ inspection to insure road worthiness.  That combined with the fact that virtually all of the miles will be highway miles (the train system is used to get around locally) means that I stand a good chance of getting a decent vehicle.

With all of these reports of 200,000 mile cars I think I'll move my cap up a bit to 120,000 km (75,000 miles) if the price savings warrants it.  I understand nothing's guaranteed but don't worry I'll do my due diligence.


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## ampaholic (Jul 19, 2013)

carl2591 said:


> THREE MILES and you drive that.. why not ride a bike?? three miles is worse on a car than anything you can do.. it does not get up to temp and the oil get a lot of moisture inside the engine.  look at the oil filler cap,, i bet is all junked up with sludge.. see it all the time in used cars with owners that are 1. slack on oil changes,, 2. drive short distances a couple time a day.
> 
> gums them up inside quick..



Other than June and July - it would be way too dangerous to bike for me since I would be riding in the dark. 

And in June and July I prefer to drive home in the heat after a hard day - not all of us hold down an office chair all day. 

But, thanks for you concern for my Toyota's (and my) health.


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