# Who is good at negotiating a new car purchase?



## DeniseM (Oct 27, 2017)

I am going to buy a new 2017 car.

I am going to pay cash.

The window sticker price (MSRP) of the car I want is $44,075

The dealership's first offer to me is $39,500 - out the door.

*What would you offer?*


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## harveyhaddixfan (Oct 27, 2017)

I bought a Prius in 2014. Looked at pricing in Columbus Oh, I’m in Springfield an hour west. It was $3500-4500 under sticker on a few dealer websites. My local dealer came close to matching at $4000 off sticker. Checking pricing at other dealers is where I’d start. Even if they are 2 hours away. 

Is the $39,500 with tax? I’d guess that would put the price closer to $35k which isn’t too bad. But it is long past end of year closeout sales, so you may be able to talk them down more.


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## hncgregoraz (Oct 27, 2017)

Couple of items,

Don't say you are paying cash.  Say that you have not decided, and it depends on the offers.  Dealers often get paid on the financing side too, so they may deal on the price more if they get that $, you just need to make sure that you don't have a prepayment penality.

Second, shop your configuration to the Internet sales rep at multiple dealers.

Determine options you are willing to accept in addition to your must have items.

Dealers make a lot of their profit with ads, such as tint, weather protection, tire and wheel warranty, extended warranties, etc, but they also tend to have the most flexibility with these high margin items.

We skipped the dealership BS with our most recent purchae.  Tesla sells direct only.

Harry

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## DavidnRobin (Oct 27, 2017)

I would not buy a new car nor would I pay cash.
Check Costco - they have set prices. That is how a bought my last new car with cash (last time).
IMO YMMV
Buying a brand new car is akin to buying from Developers. {wink}


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## DavidnRobin (Oct 27, 2017)

Lease a new car - drive for Uber/Lyft - write it off...
 


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## DeniseM (Oct 27, 2017)

$39,500 is "out the door" - that means the total with all fees and taxes.

Dave - I just _want_ a new car.  

I have been looking around - availability of the car and model I want is low.


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## SMHarman (Oct 27, 2017)

Want to name the car and spec?

Also ask them if they prefer cash or finance. 

A buddy of mine got a crazy deal that was improved by taking their 0.9% financing. 

The small print of the financing said it could be repaid in full after 3 months. 

So three months later he repaid the financing.  The tiny interest bill was made up for in spades on the additional discount.


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## harveyhaddixfan (Oct 27, 2017)

Assuming 8% tax and a few fees, that puts the purchase price around $36k. That’s not terrible to get $8k off. But since you’re essentially buying “last years model”, you may be able to do a little better. A friend was offered 25% off sticker on a few Chevy models.


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## DeniseM (Oct 27, 2017)

If I name the car - you guys will all just pile on and tell me why I shouldn't buy it!


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## harveyhaddixfan (Oct 27, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> If I name the car - you guys will all just pile on and tell me why I shouldn't buy it!



 There’s also the option of getting a really nice 2015 XXX for less! 

I’ve seen a lot of local sales in the Facebook marketplace that would be nice fun cars. One was a 2006 BMW 525i with chocolate brown leather seats and only 90k miles for $6k! I’m sure you could find something local too if you wanted to go that route, but if you can get 20-25% off sticker already, might as well buy new.


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## DaveNV (Oct 27, 2017)

Denise, do yourself a HUGE favor and look at the Costco Auto Buying program. You may save a boatload of money on your new car. https://www.costcoauto.com/enterzip..._medium=services_page&utm_campaign=bau&cmpc=1

Dave


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## amycurl (Oct 27, 2017)

There is also a credit union auto buying service that is great and easy to use. Also, Consumer Reports can provide you with the true dealer's price for the car you want with the features you want (what the dealer paid for the car from the manufacturer.) You always negotiate the price up from there, not down from the sticker. Using the car buying service, we told them what we were willing to pay for the car (no more than $1,000 above dealer invoice,) and it only took them about a week to find a dealer willing to sell the car at that price. I never went into the dealership (the auto buying service delivered the new car to my door.) We've done this twice now and we'll never look back.


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## DeniseM (Oct 27, 2017)

Dave - I looked at the Costco program, but I'm unclear abou how it works - dumb it down for me.


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## DeniseM (Oct 27, 2017)

amycurl - do you have a link to that service?


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## amycurl (Oct 27, 2017)

I think the Costco service works similarly to the CUABS. Tell them the make, model, features, color and then they find a dealer to sell that to you at the price point you want (Costco may only come back with a "standard discounted'" price, I'm not sure.)


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## PigsDad (Oct 27, 2017)

It really depends on the car, as some makes/models have much more markup than others, so that will taint any advice you get here.  Since you don't want to reveal what model you are purchasing (certainly your prerogative), just Google the make, model, year, and "invoice price", and you should get a close approximation of the dealer invoice (you need to find a site that you can put in the options your car has as well).  I have always paid below dealer invoice (that's not what they really pay for the car) by at least $500.

Next, consider negotiating w/ dealer financing.  As was stated above, dealers get incentives for financing a vehicle, so they will give you a better price.  If you want to pay cash, just pay off the loan right away.  I have never seen an auto loan with a pre-payment penalty in recent times, so it won't cost you any more.  We just purchased a new car in May, and that is exactly what we did.

Good luck!
Kurt


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## amycurl (Oct 27, 2017)

Google "credit union auto buying service." You don't have to be a member to participate, but if you are, they may be able to refer you. That's how we found out about it.


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## Elan (Oct 27, 2017)

Go to one of the big online car shopping sites and see what pricing is available on comparable cars.  As Kurt said, discounts will vary substantially based on model.

As a point of reference, 2017 F150s with MSRP near $50k can be bought for $37k or less right now.

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## CalGalTraveler (Oct 27, 2017)

We bought our teen a 3 year old car at CarMax. It's a no haggle dealer and we were able to purchase a 60 month 100,000 mile warranty.  Two years later when we did not need the car anymore (she prefers to use Uber at college), we sold it back to CarMax and they gave us a credit for the warranty.  Overall  it was cheaper than leasing a car and a lot cheaper than buying new.


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## VacationForever (Oct 27, 2017)

I usually just ask for internet price and not worry about getting a better deal than that.


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## IngridN (Oct 27, 2017)

Check KBB, Edmunds, etc. what you would pay for that car in your area. You can then tell if you got a good deal. We recently purchased a 2017, got $3K mfg credit, $2K dealer credit, and $750 credit for financing it. Plugged the numbers into KBB and Edmunds and was very pleased with the deal. We paid the car off a few days later, incurring about $50 in finance charges. I also believe, but am not sure, that 'out the door' does not include taxes and license fees.

In my experience, the Costco program is a joke. The most recent experience resulted in the Costco dealer presenting us with 4 cars that did not include all of the bells and whistles we wanted and when I asked for a price of a car that did, no response. Never again will I waste my time. 

Ingrid


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## DeniseM (Oct 27, 2017)

I have a written quote - "out the door" absolutely does include taxes and fees.


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## remowidget (Oct 27, 2017)

I would do a nationwide search for your car on Autotrader and see what the cheapest one in the country is going for and compare to what they are offering you. Just another data point. I'd check Costco too.

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## DaveNV (Oct 27, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> Dave - I looked at the Costco program, but I'm unclear abou how it works - dumb it down for me.



Basically, you register, and tell them the brand and model of car you're interested in.  Costco will send you to a specific salesperson at a specific dealership, who has agreed to abide by the terms Costco asks for. You work with only that salesperson, and if you agree the price is right, you buy the car and drive away.  If not, you leave anyway. No obligation or cost to you.  They're supposed to show you the invoice on the vehicle you want, and then you both figure the Costco price for the car.  It generally is far below normal retail pricing.  I've used it a few times, and it was always good for me. As they always say, YMMV. It costs nothing to try it out.

Dave


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## buckor (Oct 28, 2017)

Denise,

We bought a car over the summer and did a lot of research. We started off looking at new cars (though I said we would never buy a new car again after buying our last vehicle brand new) just to see prices, features, etc. Then we started looking at used models (we were only looking at one make and model).

We looked at 5 different vehicles from 5 different dealers and compared prices using www.truecar.com. I knew I didn't want to pay  $50k+ for a new vehicle. 

We ended up paying $33k, out the door, with a 5 year 125k warranty, for a 2014 model, 17k miles, 1 owner vehicle. Basically brand new for about 30-40% less than new.

We were honest as we shopped and told every dealer we were not making a decision that day (shouldn't we get a gift card as a gift for these presentations,  too?!). We also had financing lined up through our bank and was honest about that.

In the end, we didn't "pit" anyone against anyone else...we just asked for their best offer, told them we weren't going to haggle, and walked away with a vehicle at a price we are very happy with compared with what others were paying for the exact same car. 

We did make our purchase the last couple days of the month to take advantage of their quota needs for the month. I never buy a vehicle at the beginning of the month having had several friends in the industry who said the deals are better at the end of the month.

But, this is just us....

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## Stressy (Oct 28, 2017)

hncgregoraz said:


> Couple of items,
> 
> Don't say you are paying cash.  Say that you have not decided, and it depends on the offers.  *Dealers often get paid on the financing side too, so they may deal on the price more if they get that $, you just need to make sure that you don't have a prepayment penality.*
> 
> ...





SMHarman said:


> Want to name the car and spec?
> 
> *Also ask them if they prefer cash or finance.
> 
> ...



Agree with both of these posts. If you like your price, then find out what they will do with financing. They don't care about cash. You can agree with the financing (so they can make SOME money) and then pay it off later. I did this same thing nearly a year ago. Without going into the whole story, the dealership needed to make *some* money and at the rate I was negotiating they weren't going to. They tacked a measly 150.00 on to my bottom line price and asked that I take the 3.25 % financing. I used to work in lending so I understand buy rates with lenders and what they could achieve with me signing at the dealership. I allowed that to happen and simply paid it in full later.


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## winger (Oct 28, 2017)

IngridN said:


> Check KBB, Edmunds, etc. what you would pay for that car in your area. You can then tell if you got a good deal. We recently purchased a 2017, got $3K mfg credit, $2K dealer credit, and $750 credit for financing it. Plugged the numbers into KBB and Edmunds and was very pleased with the deal. We paid the car off a few days later, incurring about $50 in finance charges. I also believe, but am not sure, that 'out the door' does not include taxes and license fees.
> 
> In my experience, the Costco program is a joke. The most recent experience resulted in the Costco dealer presenting us with 4 cars that did not include all of the bells and whistles we wanted and when I asked for a price of a car that did, no response. Never again will I waste my time.
> 
> Ingrid


My sister got a.bad deal with Costco a few years ago on a Camry, so she swears on not going back to them again.


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## Talent312 (Oct 28, 2017)

Check out https://www.truecar.com
Enter your zip code, make, model, trim, and then, scroll down to see:
(1) their i-net price, (2) avg mkt price, (3) factory invoice, (4) MSRP.
You can switch between local & national pricing.
Note: Registration is not required, but it's free.

When I bought a new car in 2016, I went to the websites of area dealers.
I checked their inventory and i-net prices. One offered a "special" that week.

IIRC, AAA and Am-Ex also had car-buying services, which I did not use.
.


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## FLDVCFamily (Oct 28, 2017)

I am! I learned how online though. Google "how to negotiate a car purchase". One of the articles that came up said to never through out a number, and when they ask you what your ideal price is, say "zero" lol. I used this method, and we got our last new car way below what we were even aiming for. You never know how low they will go if you throw out what you're willing to pay first.

Our last used car came from Carvana. It was a great experience. The price is set, but we found a $500 off code online.


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## Bucky (Oct 28, 2017)

I was in the auto business for many years so take my advice or leave it.

I sounds like you have no problem working directly with the dealer so that is a plus. If you are physically going into a dealership ask to speak with the new car sales manager. That way you take the going back and forth out of the equation. He will assign you a salesperson to show you vehicles and do any test drives but he will be the one you are dealing with. I recommend doing it this way because a salesperson or internet dept may let you walk if they cannot make a deal but unless they are physically going to lose money on a deal, a manager won’t. Salespeople are paid a commission on each particular vehicle they sell. Managers get a part of the total dealerships sales and usually make a bonus when exceeding goals.

It doesn’t matter if you are paying cash of financing when negotiating the price of the vehicle, in most cases. There are certain cases where you must finance to get a specific rebate. Just make sure there is no pre payment penalty and make one payment and then pay the contract off in order to retain that rebate. In today’s age of 0%-0.9% financing its not like they are going to make a killing. The lender may pay the dealership a flat rate of up to $100 per contract.

Invoice information is all over the internet, easy to find. The dealer will usually get 2% of that as a dealer holdback (profit). Which in your case could be $900 or more. The real investigating needed is to find out what type of rebates are out there on your particular vehicle of choice. There are the factory to buyer rebates and the factory to dealer rebates. At this time of year there are usually factory to dealer rebates you may be able to take advantage of.

To make a long story short if it was me I would offer a price of 15% off of MSRP +$3000. For example if it was a $50K vehicle I would offer $39.5K I would worry about any out the door price since you can’t control tax & title. But, you can control any document fees they may throw in. They can be anywhere from $400-900 in some cases. After I had negotiated my best deal I would come back and say, by the way, I’m not paying any documentation fees. In most cases they will deduct it from the price but still show it.

There is no 20-25% markup on any vehicles out there that I know of but you can take advantage of rebates and factory to dealer incentives. My starting point might not get you the vehicle but it will make the manager come back with another offer. If he is willing to let you walk it is usually his best price. At this point in time you have to make a decision if you can live with that price of not.


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## WinniWoman (Oct 28, 2017)

I agree- never tell them you are paying cash. Just make like you will be taking out a loan and see what they offer. The best rates come from the car manufacturers themselves. The dealers skim off the top of the outside bank loans. If the rate is very low, you might consider keeping your money in the bank and only withdrawing it to make the car payments, but the rate would have to be lower than what you get in the bank, so that is not likely. If you can pay the loan from income and the rate is fairly low- like under 2%-and invest your money elsewhere where you get a good return, then you might decide to take out the loan.

When we picked up our new used car 2 weeks ago, we told simply told them at that time we decided to pay cash instead of the loan. Of course, they told me they thought I would be better off taking out a loan. I told them why would I take out a loan for 2.49% when I am only getting .75% on my money allocated for the car?

And- don't take out those expensive warranties. If you so desire, you can always get one later elsewhere when the cars warranty expires.

I think car buying is much easier today. You go on line to the different sites and do the work there beforehand.  (sites like True Car, Autotrade, CarMax, for example- and also the dealers' websites). Have them send you quotes. Once in the dealership, you can try a bit more negotiating. Sometimes they won't budge, but you can get the manager to throw in some things like the cargo and floor mats, touch up paint for the car, and a full tank of gas- stuff like that.

Oh and check out sites like Edmunds and Consumer Reports  and Kelly Blue Book so you have an idea of what the buying price should be and for reviews of the car you want. I never buy a car (or appliance) that doesn't have a recommendation from Consumer Reports.


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## geist1223 (Oct 28, 2017)

Taxes on a car buy? Oregon also lets you keep your plates and transfer them to the new car. This saves a bunch on licensing and registration.


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## ronparise (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> $39,500 is "out the door" - that means the total with all fees and taxes.
> 
> Dave - I just _want_ a new car.
> 
> I have been looking around - availability of the car and model I want is low.




Im with you

I hate the car buying experience. 

I recently lost the argument with my wife, that we needed a new car (vs used)  So off to the new car dealership.. we were in the same position as you.. cash buyers. The sticker price was about $4000 more than their offer. I asked if they could do better and was told that they post their best price and dont negotiate after that..   I had the money, so I accepted, signed the papers and drove home.  

I understand that I could have gone to other dealerships, and to the internet and probably could have gotten the car cheaper, Call me a sucker but whatever my refusal to negotiate cost me, it was worth it.


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## SMHarman (Oct 28, 2017)

mpumilia said:


> I agree- never tell them you are paying cash. Just make like you will be taking out a loan and see what they offer. The best rates come from the car manufacturers themselves. The dealers skim off the top of the outside bank loans. If the rate is very low, you might consider keeping your money in the bank and only withdrawing it to make the car payments, but the rate would have to be lower than what you get in the bank, so that is not likely. If you can pay the loan from income and the rate is fairly low- like under 2%-and invest your money elsewhere where you get a good return, then you might decide to take out the loan.
> 
> When we picked up our new used car 2 weeks ago, we told simply told them at that time we decided to pay cash instead of the loan. Of course, they told me they thought I would be better off taking out a loan. I told them why would I take out a loan for 2.49% when I am only getting .75% on my money allocated for the car?
> 
> And- don't take out those expensive warranties. If you so desire, you can always get one later elsewhere when the cars warranty expires.



Another advantage of finance in the first 18 months of the rate is low enough on gap cover then it is is insurance company money that pays up for a total loss during that time.

See the gap cover pays out the difference between the loan and the primary insurance value. Often significant at that time on a cars life due to tax / fees / day one depreciation.


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## presley (Oct 28, 2017)

I've had numerous people tell me that they just call dealerships and tell them what they want and how much they are going to pay. They do ask for the sales manager right up front. If they cannot sell at the price you will pay, you just move on. No need to negotiate. 

Not saying you are paying cash, not telling if you have a trade in and not telling how much you want to put down are all helpful in getting the bottom price. When I bought my last car from Toyota, they were recovering from a lot of bad press and gave me 0% financing and 2 years of free car maintenance. It was cheaper for me to buy a new car than a used one. It was insane. Just do all your internet research and see what your car is selling for. Be open to traveling to pick up your car. You may save thousands of dollars by buying your car further away.


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## DaveNV (Oct 28, 2017)

winger said:


> My sister got a.bad deal with Costco a few years ago on a Camry, so she swears on not going back to them again.



I don't know the details of this situation, but since Costco doesn't sell cars, the "bad deal" was from the dealership, not Costco.  If she wasn't satisfied, did she walk out?  Did she complain to Costco about her experience?  Car dealers are supposed to abide by their agreement with Costco, and if they don't, Costco needs to know about it. They will remove a dealership from the program if they don't follow the agreement.  If the deal she got wasn't to her satisfaction, she should have done more research.

Dave


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## VacationForever (Oct 28, 2017)

I often put in the exact specifications that I want on a new car and it goes into the factory HQ to manufacture with it.  I believe I lose leverage in bargaining for a better price because of this.  Only once they gave me 1.5K off the MSRP.   Has anyone does that and how do you negotiate for a good price?


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## klpca (Oct 28, 2017)

DaveNW said:


> I don't know the details of this situation, but since Costco doesn't sell cars, the "bad deal" was from the dealership, not Costco.  If she wasn't satisfied, did she walk out?  Did she complain to Costco about her experience?  Car dealers are supposed to abide by their agreement with Costco, and if they don't, Costco needs to know about it. They will remove a dealership from the program if they don't follow the agreement.  If the deal she got wasn't to her satisfaction, she should have done more research.
> 
> Dave


Our last car purchase was through Costco. We were happy with the experience - no haggling.  We bought a 2016 Ford Edge in Jan 2017. The manufacturer rebates were substantial, as was the financing - 0%. We wanted a specific configuration so I went on Ford.com and found exactly what we wanted and they drove it down from LA. It was the easiest car purchase ever.


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## Luanne (Oct 28, 2017)

We worked with a broker a couple of times and were very happy.  We knew exactly what we wanted, and he found it for us.  No hassle, no fuss.


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## DeniseM (Oct 28, 2017)

Bucky said:


> To make a long story short if it was me I would offer a price of 15% off of MSRP +$3000. For example if it was a $50K vehicle I would offer *$39.5K*



I am confused by your example:

15% of $50,000 is $7,500

$50,000 - $7,500 = $42,500 

$42,500 + $3,000 = *$45,500*


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## Wyominguy (Oct 28, 2017)

Denise,

Check out Truecar ( https://www.truecar.com/#/) for typical prices paid for any car in your area. You might even find a dealer that is in their network. I used this information a couple of years ago to get the best prices and then took that to the dealer I wanted to purchase the car from. I saved some decent $ that way.

Neil


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## PigsDad (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> I am confused by your example:
> 
> 15% of $50,000 is $7,500
> 
> ...


I think Bucky meant to say the _*discount*_ should be 15% of the MSRP _plus_ $3000.  That would make it the total discount $7500 + $3000 = $10,500 _discount_.  So $50,000 - $10,500 = $39,500 offer price.

Kurt


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## DeniseM (Oct 28, 2017)

OK - thanks - he said "offer a price" so I didn't get that, but I do appreciate his taking the time to write an informative response.


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## amycurl (Oct 28, 2017)

> I often put in the exact specifications that I want on a new car and it goes into the factory HQ to manufacture with it. I believe I lose leverage in bargaining for a better price because of this. Only once they gave me 1.5K off the MSRP. Has anyone does that and how do you negotiate for a good price?



The first time we used CUABS, the dealer they found ended up ordering our car and we had to wait for it to come directly from Germany. (It was a VW Passat, pre-diesel scandal.)


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## amycurl (Oct 28, 2017)

Apparently, Consumer Reports has now entered into a partnership with TrueCar and offers a car buying service as well. I *totally and completely* trust CU, so would feel very comfortable using this service:
https://www.consumerreports.org/cro/car-prices-build-buy-service/index.htm


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## PigsDad (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> OK - thanks - he said "offer a price" so I didn't get that.


Yes, it was confusing as written.

Kurt


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## CalGalTraveler (Oct 28, 2017)

winger said:


> My sister got a.bad deal with Costco a few years ago on a Camry, so she swears on not going back to them again.



Costco can be hit or miss depending on the car and the dealers. I tried to use them in 2006 for a new Suburban and it was not the best price.  Similar to rental cars, I look at Costco but still shop around.

With kids in college, and working from home I hardly drive anymore. I will consider leasing my next vehicle because leasing deals often outstrip purchasing if you keep within the mileage limits.


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## DavidnRobin (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> Dave - I looked at the Costco program, but I'm unclear abou how it works - dumb it down for me.



Added - sorry - hadn’t read thru thread before posting.

The Costco site describes the process .
Identify the car you want (including options - essentially the car package) - if the Dealer is part of Costco system, then go to that Dealer and use their Costco person at stated price. (No bargaining on the Identified car - including options, but there will be typical add ons - window tint, undercoat etc)

Be forewarned that they will still try and upsell you- also make false claims.
In my case - Lexus RWC CA - I was told that this was Costco price by non-Costco rep - I forced the issue requesting to actually see the Costco termsheet - saved $700.

It was however the car that Angel Pagan was riding in during the 1st WS parade...  ahhh... those were the days. I still find confetti 
Go Astros! Do not let the Dodgers win the WS !!!


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## RX8 (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> I am going to buy a new 2017 car.
> 
> I am going to pay cash.
> 
> ...



What you have listed doesn’t really help to know if you got a good deal. Don’t confuse rebates with a dealer discount. 

It would be better to know MSRP and what the selling price is before tax, license and rebates. The rebates are going to be the same regardless of the price you pay. Tax and license may vary only slightly. This would tell you the true dealer discount. Another recommendation, if it truly a great deal the dealer should be fine showing you the vehicle invoice, if you ask.


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## DavidnRobin (Oct 28, 2017)

DaveNW said:


> I don't know the details of this situation, but since Costco doesn't sell cars, the "bad deal" was from the dealership, not Costco.  If she wasn't satisfied, did she walk out?  Did she complain to Costco about her experience?  Car dealers are supposed to abide by their agreement with Costco, and if they don't, Costco needs to know about it. They will remove a dealership from the program if they don't follow the agreement.  If the deal she got wasn't to her satisfaction, she should have done more research.
> 
> Dave



This is correct - see my post. Treat car dealers like TS salespeople - get it in writing- ask to see the documentation, due your due diligence.


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## Chrispee (Oct 28, 2017)

Asking "who is good at negotiating a new car purchase" is a tough question as the dealers make a point stroking the ego of the negotiator once the deal is done.  There are so many car buyers out there who think they are the king/queen of negotiation just because their dealer told them "wow, you really beat us down" after agreeing upon price.  IMO your best bet is to ask for advice from a friend/acquaintance who has worked in the business.  I have limited experience as I just worked in the accounting office of a dealership group for a couple of years, but here's my take:


Invoice pricing is not a super useful data point.  The whole idea of publishing invoice pricing  is odd as the public really has no idea of what holdbacks and hidden incentives the dealers are getting.  Invoice pricing is yet another way to make the consumer feel like they got a great deal, nothing more.
Test at one dealership, and then contact the internet sales managers at a few nearby dealerships to collect data points.
Using Costco will generally get you 85% of the discount you might be able to negotiate yourself
Find out the Costco price, and go to another dealership with an offer that knocks off another 15% of the discount amount you were given
I wouldn't bother withholding info on your plans to cash purchase on a new vehicle (I would for a used vehicle though).  These tricks are not a surprise to dealers.
Separate yourself from the testing process (largely emotional) and make it clear that you're strictly analytical regarding pricing
Make it clear that you're only basing your purchase on OTD pricing with no add on fees etc.  If you don't do this, most dealers will try to confuse you with paperwork including multiple fees.
Be calm and methodical, don't let the dealer wear you down by frustrating you with waiting during a negotiation.  They will often move slowly if negotiating in person as the customer is more likely to cave if the back and forth goes on for a long time.
Don't be afraid to say "looks like we aren't going to find a mutually agreeable price right now, I'm going to go home and sleep on it"

Without knowing the make/model it's pretty hard for any of us to give you specific advice since we don't know how much of the $4575 discount offered by your dealer is rebate from the manufacturer.  If you don't want to share that info, you could just email a few dealership internet sales managers looking for a quote to make sure you're in the ballpark.  If they all quote similarly, I'd go back to the original dealership and say that you were looking to pay $38,000, and negotiate from there.


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## SMHarman (Oct 28, 2017)

VacationForever said:


> I often put in the exact specifications that I want on a new car and it goes into the factory HQ to manufacture with it.  I believe I lose leverage in bargaining for a better price because of this.  Only once they gave me 1.5K off the MSRP.   Has anyone does that and how do you negotiate for a good price?


On European brands you do this with 'european delivery' .   Fly over and pick it up from the factory. Take a euro vacation and then drop it back with them and they import it to your local us dealer.


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## VacationForever (Oct 28, 2017)

SMHarman said:


> On European brands you do this with 'european delivery' .   Fly over and pick it up from the factory. Take a euro vacation and then drop it back with them and they import it to your local us dealer.


I know that is an option but I normally just have them ship it here.


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## ottawasquaw (Oct 28, 2017)

Exactly! There's your best piece of advise...shop the end of the month


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## stmartinfan (Oct 28, 2017)

ottawasquaw said:


> Exactly! There's your best piece of advise...shop the end of the month



I agree.  We've been reading hints on car buying since we're in the market too.  Many recommend shopping at the end of the month or the end of the year.

As others indicated, dealer's invoice price is a meaningless figure these days.  Much of car dealer's profit comes from rebates and other promotional payments that are separate from their margin on the invoice price.  Since dealers often get significant bonuses for meeting manufacturers’ goals for the month, quarter or year end, it can be advantageous to pick your car and then visit the dealer in the last few days before the end of a period.  That can be especially evident if you live in a city with multiple dealers for the same brand, because if they are just a sale or two from making their goal they can be very motivated to make a sale.  

We're waiting until late in December to do our purchase, since we have some flexibility in when we need a new car.


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## DeniseM (Oct 28, 2017)

Thanks everybody - I have 3 local dealerships looking for the car I want, and I will let you know how it goes.


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## Luanne (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> Thanks everybody - I have 3 local dealerships looking for the car I want, and I will let you know how it goes.


Interesting.  We had found that the dealerships in an area often worked together.  Meaning that if one didn't have it they'd check with the others.  So you have three local dealerships all looking for the same car.


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## DeniseM (Oct 28, 2017)

Yes, I do - want to see who has the best price.  None of them have it in stock - the closest one, in the color I want, is over 100 miles away.


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## SMHarman (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> Yes, I do - want to see who has the best price.  None of them have it in stock - the closest one, in the color I want, is over 100 miles away.


100 miles.  2 hour drive for a new car you'll have for the next 26,000 hours or more


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## DeniseM (Oct 28, 2017)

The last time I bought a new car, the dealer went and got the one I wanted, so I am trying that route first, and also seeing if one of my local dealers can do better on the price.  We'll see what happens.


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## remowidget (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> Yes, I do - want to see who has the best price.  None of them have it in stock - the closest one, in the color I want, is over 100 miles away.


Finding the closest one, huh? Some traveller. Lol. Joking. I think about buying a car on the other coast, taking time to travel around and then the road trip home. I know of people who have bought cars and saved money this way, although most of them have had them shipped rather than making an adventure out of it. In some cases, the savings could pay for the whole trip.

Is the car you are looking at limited availability everywhere, or just where you are?

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## DeniseM (Oct 28, 2017)

The car is not that limited - but I want a red one, and there are no red ones left locally.


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## Luanne (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> The last time I bought a new car, the dealer went and got the one I wanted, so I am trying that route first, and also seeing if one of my local dealers can do better on the price.  We'll see what happens.


I'm just wondering if all three dealers are looking for the same car if that might somehow drive the price up?


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## remowidget (Oct 28, 2017)

Are ya gonna tell us what it is after you buy it?

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## DeniseM (Oct 28, 2017)

I might as well tell you now - but don't bother telling me why I shouldn't buy it, because my mind is made up!  

I drive a Jeep now, and it's my favorite car I've every owned, and yes, I do need 4WD, because we have a 2nd home in the Sierras.

*Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk - You may have seen it in the new Jeep commercial:
*



*
*


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## slip (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> I might as well tell you now - but don't bother telling me why I shouldn't buy it, because my mind is made up!
> 
> I drive a Jeep now, and it's my favorite car I've every owned, and yes, I do need 4WD, because we have a 2nd home in the Sierras.
> 
> ...



That's my favorite too.


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## Luanne (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> I might as well tell you now - but don't bother telling me why I shouldn't buy it, because my mind is made up!
> 
> I drive a Jeep now, and it's my favorite car I've every owned, and yes, I do need 4WD, because we have a 2nd home in the Sierras.
> 
> ...


Love the red. 

When I bought my most recent car (a Honda CRV) the one they had on the lot was a brown one.  No thanks!  I held out for the red.


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## DeniseM (Oct 28, 2017)

I'm all about the RED!  I could buy a white or silver one locally.... uh no


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## remowidget (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> I'm all about the RED!  I could buy a white or silver one locally.... uh no


Nice, definitely hold out for what you want.

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## remowidget (Oct 28, 2017)

Here is one close to us for $32,500. Maybe it is missing options, but it is leather and 4wd.

https://m.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...chRadius=0&mmt=[JEEP[CHER[CHER|Trailhawk]][]]

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## remowidget (Oct 28, 2017)

Here is one for $26,700

https://m.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...Simple=RED&mmt=[JEEP[CHER[CHER|Trailhawk]][]]

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## remowidget (Oct 28, 2017)

remowidget said:


> Here is one for $26,700
> 
> https://m.autotrader.com/cars-for-s...Simple=RED&mmt=[JEEP[CHER[CHER|Trailhawk]][]]
> 
> Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk


Oops, $27,600.

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## DeniseM (Oct 28, 2017)

Wow - that is a great price!


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## DaveNV (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> The car is not that limited - but I want a red one, and there are no red ones left locally.



I didn't know they still make a Yugo in red. 

Dave


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## DeniseM (Oct 28, 2017)

DaveNW -


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## remowidget (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> Wow - that is a great price!


If you don't want to go and get it, you can get a car shipped across the country for about a grand. You can also use the listing in your negotiations.

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## DeniseM (Oct 28, 2017)

Thank you so much for the info!


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## remowidget (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> Thank you so much for the info!


You are very welcome.

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## taffy19 (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> I'm all about the RED!  I could buy a white or silver one locally.... uh no


I like the darker red!  Very nice, Denise.  TUG saved you money like they always seem to do with timeshares too and now with a new car.


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## SMHarman (Oct 28, 2017)

VacationForever said:


> I know that is an option but I normally just have them ship it here.


EDP saves money,  even if you fly in, drive round the corner and fly out.


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## SMHarman (Oct 28, 2017)

ottawasquaw said:


> Exactly! There's your best piece of advise...shop the end of the month


Not always. If they have hit their target for the month they want you to close in the first.


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## VacationForever (Oct 28, 2017)

SMHarman said:


> EDP saves money,  even if you fly in, drive round the corner and fly out.


In terms of taxes?


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## Talent312 (Oct 28, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> I'm all about the RED!  I could buy a white or silver one locally.... uh no



I once bought a red Pontiac.
It got stopped too often at an area speed trap (Waldo, Florida).
Folks told me that the color attracted cops.
The salesman called to ask how I liked it... I said, "It goes too fast."

.


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## SMHarman (Oct 28, 2017)

VacationForever said:


> In terms of taxes?


https://www.tripsavvy.com/european-delivery-programs-1862535

Seems a no haggle percent discount off msrp.


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## VacationForever (Oct 28, 2017)

SMHarman said:


> https://www.tripsavvy.com/european-delivery-programs-1862535
> 
> Seems a no haggle percent discount off msrp.


That was the option that we toyed with when we "custom" configured our BMWs but decided it was too much hassle to fly over.  Now that we are retired, if we go the European car route again we will keep this in mind.


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## ottawasquaw (Oct 29, 2017)

SMHarman said:


> Not always. If they have hit their target for the month they want you to close in the first.


Is this your personal experience or are you affiliated with the industry?


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## ottawasquaw (Oct 29, 2017)

remowidget said:


> Here is one close to us for $32,500. Maybe it is missing options, but it is leather and 4wd.
> 
> https://m.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?listingId=460348585&zip=97322&endYear=2018&pageLayout=list&sortBy=distanceASC&startYear=1981&listingTypes=new&searchRadius=0&mmt=[JEEP[CHER[CHER|Trailhawk]][]]
> 
> Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk


The MSRP on both of these is 5k less than Denise posted. Something's missing. Still, it's a great price! Of course, I wouldn't buy anything without consulting my Son2. He's passionate about Jeeps and makes a living selling them.


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## remowidget (Oct 29, 2017)

ottawasquaw said:


> The MSRP on both of these is 5k less than Denise posted. Something's missing. Still, it's a great price! Of course, I wouldn't buy anything without consulting my Son2. He's passionate about Jeeps and makes a living selling them.


I didn't notice that she had given the MSRP. She should definitely make sure she getting the options she is wanting, but the question is does she really want the options that are on the one they found. That's why I think a nationwide search is good, because you can check out what is available.

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## Bucky (Oct 29, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> OK - thanks - he said "offer a price" so I didn't get that, but I do appreciate his taking the time to write an informative response.



Sorry DeniseM. Pigsdad is correct. No buying service I. E., Costco, broker, etc will ever get you as good a deal as you can get on your own if you are willing to play the game. How much is it worth to play?
USAA offers auto loans with a .50% rate reduction if you use their car buying service! That money comes from somewhere and your leaving it on the table by using their buying service. Also, don’t ever use Carmax as a starting point of how much a vehicle should sell for. The only thing they offer is no negotiating. We used to love to see customers come in with their Carmax offers because we knew we could beat it and still make a decent profit. Same with Costco or any other buying service.

No dealer gives a darn whether you are paying cash or not. Actually I don’t ever remember having one of my salespeople even ask the question until the deal was negotiated and agreed to and then it was only so the customer could fill out a credit app or not before getting to the business office. Now the business manager probably cares but that’s because part of his compensation is usually based off additional income he generates through finance contracts, extended warranties, life/disability/gap ins, etc.

Just do your due diligence ahead of time. The internet will provide you with the invoice price on just about every new vehicle out there. In most cases most manufacturers websites will list any incentives are offered. Basically all new vehicles out there have a 2% hold back and an advertising fee included that can be had if they really want to get rid of the vehicle. But, if the vehicle is in high demand like maybe a Toyota Highlander, you are not going to get as great a deal as other less popular vehicles. The really tough part to find out is if there is any factory to dealer incentives. In most cases you won’t get that money because you will never know it’s out there.

What it boils down to is take the deal you are happy with. You might not get the best you could have but if your happy go for it.


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## Roger830 (Oct 29, 2017)

The red Jeep is very nice.

I have had 4 red cars including my current ride, a 2010 Chevy Impala.

July of 2010 there was $5000 cash back on a new Chevy so I went to the dealer to see what was available with no intention of buying. There were a few Impalas on the lot that didn't appeal to me so we went inside. 

My car was on the showroom floor with $5,000 plus about another $1500 off of the list price. I loved it at first sight. 
The salesman said the he'd see what he could give me for a trade. I was thinking, I don't car what he gives me, I'm buying that car. 
I'm now at 47,000 miles and the car is still like-new.

My prior red cars were a Triumph TR3 sports car that my first wife totaled, a 1966 Mustang, and a 1969 Ford Fairlane 500 with a black vinyl top.


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## ottawasquaw (Oct 29, 2017)

Bucky said:


> Sorry DeniseM. Pigsdad is correct. No buying service I. E., Costco, broker, etc will ever get you as good a deal as you can get on your own if you are willing to play the game. How much is it worth to play?
> USAA offers auto loans with a .50% rate reduction if you use their car buying service! That money comes from somewhere and your leaving it on the table by using their buying service. Also, don’t ever use Carmax as a starting point of how much a vehicle should sell for. The only thing they offer is no negotiating. We used to love to see customers come in with their Carmax offers because we knew we could beat it and still make a decent profit. Same with Costco or any other buying service.
> 
> No dealer gives a darn whether you are paying cash or not. Actually I don’t ever remember having one of my salespeople even ask the question until the deal was negotiated and agreed to and then it was only so the customer could fill out a credit app or not before getting to the business office. Now the business manager probably cares but that’s because part of his compensation is usually based off additional income he generates through finance contracts, extended warranties, life/disability/gap ins, etc.
> ...



True dat! Saturn is no longer around but that was their great selling point - one price, no haggle. Statistically, their buyers paid more. 

You can research the pricing and incentives all day long but it comes down to supply and demand. If you are buying new and it's last years model, it's probably a dog that's been sitting on the lot. It didn't sell because it wasn't spec out right. It doesn't mean it's not the right car for you and it may be the best deal on the lot.

Dealerships are small businesses. Lots of times they are a family business. Not all are run the same. I don't understand why people don't find somebody they can trust and do business with them? It just becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy to squeeze every last cent out of the deal and then wonder why you didn't get good service. Leave a little on the table like you would at a restaurant. 

I'd like to see somebody fax 3 RFQ to local dentists and shop for the best price.


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## remowidget (Oct 29, 2017)

ottawasquaw said:


> I don't understand why people don't find somebody they can trust and do business with them? It just becomes a self-fulfilling prophecy to squeeze every last cent out of the deal and then wonder why you didn't get good service. Leave a little on the table like you would at a restaurant.
> 
> I'd like to see somebody fax 3 RFQ to local dentists and shop for the best price.



Car buying is definitely a weird business model. For me, this is probably the heart of It. Is there a dealership you can trust? I've never walked away from a dealership with a feeling of trust that I was given a fair shake. All of them I have worked with are trying to get your last dime before you drive away.

As far as dentists go, I found a way to save big. My dentist has said i need a crown for a few years at a cost of like $1500. I go to Cancun pretty much every year,  so a few months I decided to get it done down there. I made an appointment to get it done for $400. The office is in Cancun`s largest mall. The equipment was very modern and I had a gorgeous view of the lagoon in the distance from the chair I was it. After a full exam, with an x-ray of each tooth, she asked why my dentist said I needed a crown. That tooth has a very large filling in it, but she could see nothing wrong with it. So she recommended waiting until I have issues, because doing a crown will most likely require a root canal which will shorten the tooth life. So now I don't trust my American ex-dentist.





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## Elan (Oct 29, 2017)

I personally don't care where I buy my cars.  Of our 4 current cars, only the last was purchased locally, and it was used.  Traveled to buy the other 3. 

  The service departments don't care either.  It's not like people don't move and take their cars with them.  A Ford is a Ford.  Every Ford service department will work on your Ford.  I don't think they look to see where it was purchased before they change the oil.  There might be some additional consideration for warranty work if purchased at that particular dealer, but even that would be minimal.  



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## Elan (Oct 29, 2017)

Also, I don't agree that most dealerships are small businesses.  At least around here most major new car dealers are part of huge conglomerates with multiple dealerships.  Some so large that they're publicly traded.

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## ottawasquaw (Oct 29, 2017)

Elan said:


> I personally don't care where I buy my cars.  Of our 4 current cars, only the last was purchased locally, and it was used.  Traveled to buy the other 3.
> 
> The service departments don't care either.  It's not like people don't move and take their cars with them.  A Ford is a Ford.  Every Ford service department will work on your Ford.  I don't think they look to see where it was purchased before they change the oil.  There might be some additional consideration for warranty work if purchased at that particular dealer, but even that would be minimal.
> 
> ...


oh sure I agree with your points. I just don't see these sorts of discussions on home purchases or TVs. You figure out what you want and you try to get the best price. End of story - not "you can find the invoice on the internet." You hear people talk about Kelly Blue book but it's not as common for people to have any idea of comps for their house. Just weird to me.

You are right about service departments but I think you are kidding yourself about benefits of loyalty.


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## DeniseM (Oct 29, 2017)

ottawasquaw said:


> The MSRP on both of these is 5k less than Denise posted.



Here is another interesting thing - the car I am looking at in CA, and the car in Oregon are at dealerships owned by the same company, and they appear to be identical, but one is about $5K less.


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## Elan (Oct 29, 2017)

ottawasquaw said:


> oh sure I agree with your points. I just don't see these sorts of discussions on home purchases or TVs. You figure out what you want and you try to get the best price. End of story - not "you can find the invoice on the internet." You hear people talk about Kelly Blue book but it's not as common for people to have any idea of comps for their house. Just weird to me.
> 
> You are right about service departments but I think you are kidding yourself about benefits of loyalty.


That's because dealerships established a sales model where nobody pays asking price.  That's not true for TVs.  So blame the dealerships.  Brand new 2018 F150s that are just now hitting the lots already have $5k dealer discounts and even have factory incentives.  It's certainly not because there's low demand or that it's stale inventory.  It's simply how the model works.  So blame the dealers and manufactures.


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## Elan (Oct 29, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> Here is another interesting thing - the car I am looking at in CA, and the car in Oregon are at dealerships owned by the same company, and they appear to be identical, but one is about $5K less.


If that's the case, then tell your local dealer that you want to buy the one in Oregon.  They can likely swap cars with the Oregon dealer and have the Oregon car brought to them for a small (sometimes zero) delivery fee.

ETA:. Alternately, just tell them to match the Oregon dealer's price.

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## DeniseM (Oct 29, 2017)

That is what I did!


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## Elan (Oct 29, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> That is what I did!


And.....?

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## DeniseM (Oct 29, 2017)

They will get back to me tomorrow.


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## Elan (Oct 29, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> They will get back to me tomorrow.


Excellent!  Let us know how it goes.  

I took a Portland dealer's ad into our local dealer when I bought the aforementioned Toyota pickup.  They reluctantly matched.

On our 2005 Pilot, I negotiated pretty extensively with the local dealer.  Finally walked out.  Bought same vehicle in PDX for about $2k less than local dealer's last counter.  Free vacation in Portland!

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## remowidget (Oct 29, 2017)

Elan said:


> Excellent!  Let us know how it goes.
> 
> I took a Portland dealer's ad into our local dealer when I bought the aforementioned Toyota pickup.  They reluctantly matched.
> 
> ...


We did the same thing when we bought our Tahoe, but we are only an hour South of Portland. We went to our local dealer first. The salesman  asked if he could get us their best price. We thought wow, maybe we will buy it here. He went away for like 15 minutes and came back with full MSRP plus additional dealer Mark up as their best deal. We had a newspaper with a dealer in Portland's ad offering $12k off any in stock Tahoe. Seriously, do they really believe we won`t drive an hour to save $15k. 

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## DavidnRobin (Oct 29, 2017)

Don't cars registered in CA have different smog requirements? Or is that no longer the case?
I thought that was why the car prices are less in the CA border states.

Anyway - interested in how it all comes out.
I like the new red.


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## PamMo (Oct 29, 2017)

Denise, if it doesn't work out, check with Dave Smith Motors in Kellog, ID. www.davesmith.com 

They're a nationally known dealership (they regularly advertise in Wall Street Journal) with usually very good prices, and customers fly/drive in from all over the country to pick up their new cars. There's no dickering over price, as prices are set. We bought a GMC Suburban from them a few years back, and saved thousands of dollars. It was the most pleasant car buying experience we've EVER had!


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## SMHarman (Oct 29, 2017)

DavidnRobin said:


> Don't cars registered in CA have different smog requirements? Or is that no longer the case?
> I thought that was why the car prices are less in the CA border states.
> 
> Anyway - interested in how it all comes out.
> I like the new red.


Most if not all cars sold now are 50 state legal.


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## bizaro86 (Oct 29, 2017)

PamMo said:


> Denise, if it doesn't work out, check with Dave Smith Motors in Kellog, ID. www.davesmith.com
> 
> They're a nationally known dealership (they regularly advertise in Wall Street Journal) with usually very good prices, and customers fly/drive in from all over the country to pick up their new cars. There's no dickering over price, as prices are set. We bought a GMC Suburban from them a few years back, and saved thousands of dollars. It was the most pleasant car buying experience we've EVER had!


Interesting. Their website says their prices are only good for Idaho/Washington/Alaska. I wonder if they are actually different elsewhere or if that's just a cya. I will probably buy my next car in the US and import it into Canada, so I'm curious.


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## Bucky (Oct 30, 2017)

I will put my last two cents in now.

If you want your best deal anywhere do your due diligence ahead of time and be prepared to stick with your guns when you get to the dealership.

Above all else don’t fall in love with it. It is nothing but a piece of metal with a computer in it. The whole  premise behind the sales process is to make the customer fall in love.

That’s really why the buying process takes so long. The whole idea is to keep the customer on the lot as long as possible. Wear them down and close a deal. Best way to avoid this is be prepared to make a final offer and walk away. They will either come after you or not but as long as you are making them a reasonable offer, they will come after you.


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## isisdave (Oct 30, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> That is what I did!


You might be buying trouble.  California cars have different emission control standards, and as I recall there are additional fees to register a non-California car.  Better ask about that.


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## VegasBella (Oct 30, 2017)

Here's a link with info about buying outside of CA
https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/detail/vr/os
and
https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?...ntent_en/dmv/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr29

I'm sure you could find that yourself though


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## SMHarman (Oct 30, 2017)

isisdave said:


> You might be buying trouble.  California cars have different emission control standards, and as I recall there are additional fees to register a non-California car.  Better ask about that.


Not many 49 state cars now. Mainly diesel. 

https://www.dmv.ca.gov/portal/dmv/?...ntent_en/dmv/pubs/brochures/fast_facts/ffvr29


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## DeniseM (Oct 30, 2017)

The local dealer made me an offer of $41,500 out the door - about $2,300 higher than the best offer I have.

I countered with $37,000 - he came back with $39,000.

He said $39,000 was his best offer, so I said I was going to keep looking - I hope he will come back with an offer of $38,000, or I may.   We'll see.


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## pittle (Oct 31, 2017)

I got up and started to leave twice when I bought my newest vehicle a couple of years ago.  It was amazing how they negotiated when I stepped out of the dealership on that 2nd time.    They had the vehicle I wanted and the dealership closer to me had made me an offer that I did not accept on the same vehicle (they were going to have to drive 30 miles to get it).  Anyway, I knew what I wanted and what I was willing to pay.  They found all kinds of offers to knock the price down - I had to run over to a local credit union and open an account and got an extra $750 off.  I cancelled that account within 90 days.  We already had insurance with one of the companies that had another $100 off, etc.  Within 2 hours of walking into the dealership (including going to the CU) I was driving my new vehicle home.  I bought it during a 4th of July sale - I usually buy at the end of a month.

I have been the negotiator for our vehicles since 1999 when hubby told me that I needed to learn how to do it. (I have bought 2 totally alone.) The first dealership I ever went to alone told me to go home and get my husband - _*not*_ a great idea on their part!  My husband had just retired and it was to be my vehicle and I was going to pay for it!  He did go with me when I found the one I wanted and if they started talking to him, he would say, I am only here to drive the old car home - you better talk to her - it is her deal.   I am more willing to get up and walk than hubby, even when it is one that I really did want.  You can always go back.  Just because you walk in the door, you do not have to buy.


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## maturesparrow (Oct 31, 2017)

In purchasing a car, I always compare prices with others before I finally decide. I do not buy it in cash. I also apply for a car loan.


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## DeniseM (Nov 1, 2017)

I'm picking up my new car this morning.  I ended up getting the car I wanted for $39,000.  My local dealership went and got it for me (the one that was 100 mi. away.)  A friend who is a fleet mgr. for another dealership negotiated the price for me, so I feel confident that I got a good price.

They treated me very nicely at the dealership - zero pressure.  A good experience overall.


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## DaveNV (Nov 1, 2017)

Congratulations!  We need photo evidence of you driving the new rig. If there are no pictures, it didn't happen. 

Dave


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## DeniseM (Nov 1, 2017)

Dave - I'm not speaking to you after the way you Dissed my new car!


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## Mosca (Nov 1, 2017)

bizaro86 said:


> Interesting. Their website says their prices are only good for Idaho/Washington/Alaska. I wonder if they are actually different elsewhere or if that's just a cya. I will probably buy my next car in the US and import it into Canada, so I'm curious.




Rebates are region specific.


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## DaveNV (Nov 1, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> Dave - I'm not speaking to you after the way you Dissed my new car!



Are you sure it's me?  I didn't diss anything.   Unless you decided not to buy that red Yugo after all?  

Dave


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## DeniseM (Nov 1, 2017)

Dave - Now you are REALLY IN TROUBLE!!!!


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## DaveNV (Nov 1, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> Dave - Now you are REALLY IN TROUBLE!!!!




For the record: I've never met a Jeep I didn't like, (well, except for that one time, but their insurance covered it...). And I have never met a Yugo that I _DID_ like.  So you're good to go with me.  I want to see this gorgeous new car. 

Dave


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## DeniseM (Nov 1, 2017)

Well - since you put it that way:  You are forgiven!  

I will take some pictures.


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## pedro47 (Nov 1, 2017)

DeniseM great job and I hope you enjoy your new automobile.


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## Brett (Nov 1, 2017)

DaveNW said:


> For the record: I've never met a Jeep I didn't like, (well, except for that one time, but their insurance covered it...). And I have never met a Yugo that I _DID_ like.  So you're good to go with me.  I want to see this gorgeous new car.
> 
> Dave



LOL Consumer Reports has never met a Jeep they liked  (for reliability)  .... looks - that's different


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## DeniseM (Nov 1, 2017)

I currently have a 2007 Jeep, that I bought new, and except for normal maintenance, it has never been in the shop.  I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the new one is reliable, too.


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## VacationForever (Nov 1, 2017)

The only Jeep that I love the looks of are the Wranglers.  I love that rugged look.  But then I have not owned a Jeep before and I may actually like one after driving it.


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## DaveNV (Nov 1, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> I currently have a 2007 Jeep, that I bought new, and except for normal maintenance, it has never been in the shop.  I'm keeping my fingers crossed that the new one is reliable, too.



My daughter and son-in-law bought a top-of-the-line, loaded, Grand Whatever a few years ago, and they love it. It cost a lot, but they're very happy with it. Denise, for where you live, I think you've made a fine choice.  I don't care what CR says. 

Dave


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## easyrider (Nov 1, 2017)

VacationForever said:


> The only Jeep that I love the looks of are the Wranglers.  I love that rugged look.  But then I have not owned a Jeep before and I may actually like one after driving it.



Wranglers are defiantly not the most comfortable Jeep to take on a trip. I took mine on a trip to the dunes last summer and regretted that I didn't trailer or tow it instead. Modified Jeep Wranglers like mine are more for primitive roads and off road. You really have to drive the Wrangler, especially at speeds over 60, imo.  

For a nice luxury ride, a Jeep Grand Cherokee is a very nice ride and does really well on any road. It does have some off road abilities too.

Bill


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## DeniseM (Nov 1, 2017)

This is a Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk and it has the full off-road pkg - which we actually want for steep snowy roads in the high Sierras, more than anything.   We may take it on some dirt roads, but no serious off-roading. 

And yes, I like the way it LOOKS!


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## DeniseM (Nov 2, 2017)

OK - DaveNW - here is the proof!  The dealer took this picture when I picked up my new car:



*notice that my avatar really does look like me!


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## rickandcindy23 (Nov 2, 2017)

Cool lady, cool car.  I like the color you chose. 

So how much did you pay, without taxes included?


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## DeniseM (Nov 2, 2017)

With taxes and license and everything out the door it was $39,000.


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## DaveNV (Nov 2, 2017)

Excellent!  And I like that color, too - nothing like a Yugo.   Perfect car for where you live. 

Thanks for posting. I believe you now. 

Dave


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## slip (Nov 2, 2017)

Nice vehicle, enjoy that new car smell.


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## pittle (Nov 3, 2017)

DeniseM said:


> OK - DaveNW - here is the proof!  The dealer took this picture when I picked up my new car:View attachment 5048
> 
> *notice that my avatar really does look like me!



Nice pic - nice car! Good job!   Maybe the dealership will send you a calendar with that picture on it - mine did.


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