# Utah Trip



## John Cummings (Jan 30, 2009)

I am now planning a 2 week driving trip from Southern California to Utah right after Memorial Day. A friend of ours in the SF Bay area sends us the bi-monthly magazine "American Lifestyle" every 2 months. The most recent edition has a very in depth article about touring scenic Highway 12 in Utah. It is a 122 mile loop from Torrey UT through Boulder UT, Escalante and ends at Bryce Canyon park.

We are going to drive up 395 to Ridgecrest CA and then cross through Death Valley to Las Vegas and then up I-15 to I-70 and then drive down to Torrey. We will then follow Highway 12 with some side trips to 89 and then south to Kanab and then across to I-15 at St. George's and then down I-15 to home. This will be a very leisurely trip spending several nights along the way. We will finish up by spending 4 nights in Las Vegas at The Paris on the way back.

After reading the article and looking at the stunning pictures of the red rocks and other scenery, I then did a lot of research on the Internet. Highway 12 is the only All American scenic byway in Utah and offers just spectacular scenery. We have been through Utah many times but have never taken the time to stop and look around.

Below are a couple good links to Utah's Highway 12:

http://www.utah.com/byways/highway_12.htm

http://www.so-utah.com/hwy12/homepage.html

If anybody has any suggestions or info, feel free to offer them.


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## laynemiller (Jan 30, 2009)

I didn't look at the links you included (sorry, getting ready for work) but you failed to mention Capitol Reef National Park. The highway 12 junction near Torrey is only 10 minutes from the park. I drove there two weeks ago (I live about two hours away) to take photos of the deer enjoying the area between the visitor center and the campground. It is one of my favorite places in Utah. Relatively unknown except by locals, stunning scenery and the small towns of Torrey, Bicknell and Loa are fun to visit- not big cities, but fun to see. Highway 12 is absolutely beautiful and must be seen. The town of Boulder on the south end of HW 12 is surrounded by slick rock sandstone and very quaint and lovely. Midway between Torrey and Boulder is Calf Creek Falls and shouldn't be missed. If you enjoy the outdoors, hiking, petroglyphs and pictographs and history of all kinds, take time to visit the area, but don't hurry and get off the beaten path. Send me an email if you'd like additional information.
Layne


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## Werner (Jan 30, 2009)

So much to tell, so little time!  Your timing is perfect.  Last year we drove east across southern Utah and back across northern Arizona for two weeks starting Memorial Day.  The high desert was in full bloom.  Prickly Pear Cactus, Sage and many other flowers we in bloom.   If there has been any rain this winter you should get a great show.  We called our trip "Rocks and Rock Art" because we were there to see the colorful Utah Rocks, and some of the most important and beautiful Rock Art in North America.  Since you have already done your research here are a few special sights you might like to explore.

BTW, An all wheel drive vehicle will expand your options significantly and make most washboardy gravel roads more comfortable.

Zion NP has some of the most interesting and beautiful day hikes of any national park.  Look into Angels Landing trail.  Also look into Kolob Canyon Scenic Road which leads from Virgin to Cedar City through the northern part of Zion NP.  

Take a side trip to Parowan Gap (1/2 hr northwest of Cedar City) to see some very elaborate petroglyphs, including an astrolabe.

Bryce is unique and has several short day hikes that get you down into the colorful hoodoos.

Cedar Breaks National Monument is a "mini-Bryce" and worth a drive through.  

Red Canyon (along Rt 12 west of Bryce) is a colorful lunch stop.

The drive east along Rt 12 from Bryce is beautiful but don't just follow the highway.  The entire area between Bryce and Capital Reefs is called the Grand Staircase / Escalante National Monument.  There is a Visitors Center in Cannonville.  On the western side of the Monument, south of Cannonville, you can walk through slot canyons, visit Grosvenor Arch (a huge triple arch), and drive scenic Cottonwood Canyon Road (be careful, there are lots of Cottonwood Canyons in the southwest)

Further along Rt 12, still in GS/ENM, you can take "Hole-in-the-Rock" road south of Escalante, a 78 mile mostly easy gravel road to the hole-in-rock where the Mormon settlers had to lower their wagons to the Colorado River by rope.  It is now a gorgeous view point overlooking Lake Powell.  The last 5 miles are over some small rock ledges but our rental Jeep Liberty had no problem at all but low clearance vehicles left lots of metal scrapings on the ledges.  The surprise was the desert bloom.  Dense bunches of blue and purple sage flowers made the desert floor almost glow as we drove the route.  This road is another Utah rock playground with strange rock formations (Devil's Garden), slot canyons with colorful names like "Spooky" and "Peek a Boo".  

Most people just tour the Rt 12 portion of Capital Reefs National Park but this park is there mostly because it protects one of the most beautiful (if you are a rock fan) geological structures in the Southwest, the Waterpocket Fold.  It's another long ride south from the highway.  There is also a northern section called Cathedral Valley, again a gravel road trip, this time with stream crossing, that has some spectacular thin rock spires sticking up in the middle of a valley.

Some of the best Rock Art in the southwest is in Sego Canyon, just north of I-70 near Moab and in Horseshoe Canyon, south of Green River, UT.  Horseshoe is part of Canyonlands NP but physically separate.  It contains some of the oldest and most beautiful art galleries in North America.  It takes a 7 mile round trip canyon hike to see them but they are stunning.  I took this wide-angle multi-image shot of the Great Gallery last year.  The best way to view the image is to expand it vertically and then scroll sideways.  These paintings are believed to be between 1 and 3 thousand years old.  

Of course the main part of Canyonlands is well worth a visit.  Think about taking Shafer Canyon Road from the Park to Moab.  It is a good quality gravel and rock ledge road but it is a cliff hanger.  If anyone in you party is not comfortable looking out of the car window at vertical drop offs, skip it.  You can get a look at the road from the Viewpoint just opposite the Main Visitors Center.   

Arches NP is also fascinating but don't forget to take a drive to the Needles part of Canyonlands NP, south of Moab.  

We returned to Las Vegas by traveling south to Arizona, via Natural Bridges Nat Mon, the Moqui Dugway (lots of spellings for this one), Monument Valley, Antelope Canyon (a Navaho run slot canyon tour of a very narrow and colorful slot canyon in Page, Az), and the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.  We like the North Rim because it is much less crowded and more intimate than the south rim but there are also fewer facilities so it is harder to stay nearby.  The few lodges are booked early.

You can Google many of the placenames above to get more info.  If you are a Google Earth fan, I have GE files for Southern Utah and Northern Arizona Points of Interest, also a large file showing rock art locations in the southwest, and a file showing ancient ruins in the southwest.  Send me a private message with an email and I can send them to you.  I also have them in Garmin POI format.

PS, also look into the scenic Burr Trail into Capitial Reefs from Boulder.

PPS, this is far and away the best site for preparing for a trip to the American Southwest


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## Rose Pink (Jan 30, 2009)

Werner's post was awesome.  I suggest it be added to the sticky at the top of the Western page.

Just want to add that Kodachrome Basin is off Highway 12. Also, if you have height issues, be prepared for Hogsback Ridge.  Semis drive it so it is not a problem but can be a bit scary for those who don't like looking down from heights.  Just keep your eyes straight ahead on the road and you'll be fine.


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## John Cummings (Jan 30, 2009)

laynemiller said:


> I didn't look at the links you included (sorry, getting ready for work) but you failed to mention Capitol Reef National Park. The highway 12 junction near Torrey is only 10 minutes from the park. I drove there two weeks ago (I live about two hours away) to take photos of the deer enjoying the area between the visitor center and the campground. It is one of my favorite places in Utah. Relatively unknown except by locals, stunning scenery and the small towns of Torrey, Bicknell and Loa are fun to visit- not big cities, but fun to see. Highway 12 is absolutely beautiful and must be seen. The town of Boulder on the south end of HW 12 is surrounded by slick rock sandstone and very quaint and lovely. Midway between Torrey and Boulder is Calf Creek Falls and shouldn't be missed. If you enjoy the outdoors, hiking, petroglyphs and pictographs and history of all kinds, take time to visit the area, but don't hurry and get off the beaten path. Send me an email if you'd like additional information.
> Layne



Capital Reef National Park is definitely included. We are going to spend several days touring through Hwy 12 and the side trips. We plan to stay in Torrey, Boulder, and Escalante as well as any other place that looks interesting. We don't have any time restraints as I am retired and have all the time in the world.

Thank you for the offer for info and I will be e-mailing you when I get the plans more solidified.


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## John Cummings (Jan 30, 2009)

Werner said:


> So much to tell, so little time!  Your timing is perfect.  Last year we drove east across southern Utah and back across northern Arizona for two weeks starting Memorial Day.  The high desert was in full bloom.  Prickly Pear Cactus, Sage and many other flowers we in bloom.   If there has been any rain this winter you should get a great show.  We called our trip "Rocks and Rock Art" because we were there to see the colorful Utah Rocks, and some of the most important and beautiful Rock Art in North America.  Since you have already done your research here are a few special sights you might like to explore.
> 
> BTW, An all wheel drive vehicle will expand your options significantly and make most washboardy gravel roads more comfortable.
> 
> ...



Thank you for all the info. I have been doing a lot of research on the Internet. As I said, we will definitely be taking our time and seeing as much as we can. Unfortunately, hiking is not an activity that I can do.

We will be driving our new Honda Ridgeline which is an all wheel drive vehicle.


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## John Cummings (Jan 30, 2009)

Rose Pink said:


> Werner's post was awesome.  I suggest it be added to the sticky at the top of the Western page.
> 
> Just want to add that Kodachrome Basin is off Highway 12. Also, if you have height issues, be prepared for Hogsback Ridge.  Semis drive it so it is not a problem but can be a bit scary for those who don't like looking down from heights.  Just keep your eyes straight ahead on the road and you'll be fine.



Heights don't bother me. I grew up in the mountains.


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## DaveNV (Jan 30, 2009)

John, you'll have a great trip.  A few ideas to add to your list:

If you're a coffee drinker, stop at Buffalo Java in Panguitch for the best cup of coffee you've ever had.

Last time I was in Kanab, there was a motel that had hosted many movie stars "back in the day" when some of Hollywood's classic westerns were being filmed there.  The place was filled with memorabilia.  If it's still there, it's definitely worth looking over. 

Moqui Caves just north of Kanab used to have a very interesting "colorful character" of a proprietor, but I understand he's passed on.  His family now runs the place.  If the artifacts and mineral exhibits are still there, it's a very interesting place to see.  The explanation they used to give was worth the price of admission.  (As was the clever way they'd draw in tourists by parking dead cars in the parking lot to make it look busy there.)

I second the votes for Capitol Reef.  Be sure to check out the town of Fruita, inside the park.  Great little place.  All ten houses of it...

Have fun!

Dave


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## Werner (Jan 31, 2009)

*A few more off-the-beaten path sights*

John, If hiking is out, then Sego Canyon, and Parowan Gap, listed in my first post are drive-up galleries.  There are parking areas at each and some of the art is visible from the parking lots. Sego even has rest rooms.  The Sego galleries are a study in North American rock art styles and ages.  There is a modern Ute gallery, a Fremont (800 years old ?) gallery and archaic paintings (1500 - 3000 years old).  Amazingly each group respected each others work and didn't overpaint the others even though the protected rock walls are fairly limited in area.  I wish the same could be said for modern graffiti artists.

There is a scenic loop road running north from Escalante and back to Boulder that takes you to Hell's Backbone.  The name is enough to attract attention.  Hells Backbone is a narrow saddle between two ridges.  It would be very scary without a bridge but there is a bridge and there are some pretty views by the bridge.  However, the ride up from Escalante is in trees and ride down to Boulder is in pasture land.  I wasn't too impressed but if you were tired of rocks and wanted to see trees and a mountain view it's a nice few hours.  

There is a scenic road just east of Moab, Mountain Loop Rd, that takes you through Castle Valley and back to Moab over the Manti LaSalle Mts with great views back into Castle Valley.  We hit a little snow the second week of June which did more to ruin the view than affect the driving. 

If you return via Northern Arizona, on the way south from Canyonlands I already mentioned Natural Bridges NM, but there is also the Butler Wash Ruins, a collection of structures tucked into a deep overhanging alcove.  Its not a hike but a short walk over rock pavement to get there.   It is one of dozens, maybe hundreds of small Fremont era ruins in Southern Utah. 

Just before starting down the winding Moqui (Moke, Mokee, Moqi, take your pick) Dugway there is a gravel road to your right that takes you to Muley Point.  The view is stunning.  The San Juan River canyons and goose necks meander below you and the Monument Valley buttes, spires and mesas stand tall in the distance.  

Just below the Dugway is a scenic area called Valley of the Gods with a loop road.  If you have already done some of the other scenice roads and are going to Monument Valley, you could skip this one.  

However, don't skip Goosenecks State Park.  You get an end-on view of one of the most spectacular goose necks along the the meandering San Juan River.  The view from Muley Point is higher so you see more of the meanders.  Here you only really see this one symmetrical meander.  

In Monument Valley you can take a Navaho guided tour that take you into the non-public parts of the valley, very interesting.

The planning for these road trips is almost as much fun as doing them.  Have fun.

regards,


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## John Cummings (Jan 31, 2009)

Werner,

Thanks again for all the info. We won't be returning back via Arizona. I have already covered all of Arizona pretty thoroughly. We will be entering Utah on I-15 from the south and will start Highway 12 at Torrey. We will return back to I-15 at St. Georges and then proceed south to Las Vegas for 4 nights at the Paris and then south back home. We will also visit Kanab as well as everything in the vicinity of Hwy 12. We do not plan to visit Moab.


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## shagnut (Jan 31, 2009)

Werner, thanks for the info. I will be going to St George in Sept.


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## jamstew (Jan 31, 2009)

Rose Pink said:


> Werner's post was awesome.  I suggest it be added to the sticky at the top of the Western page.
> 
> Just want to add that Kodachrome Basin is off Highway 12. Also, if you have height issues, be prepared for Hogsback Ridge.  Semis drive it so it is not a problem but can be a bit scary for those who don't like looking down from heights.  Just keep your eyes straight ahead on the road and you'll be fine.



I agree about the awesome post--I think everything was covered brilliantly.

I have a problem with the Zion-Mt. Carmel tunnel YIKES!


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## Jaybee (Feb 1, 2009)

Hi, John...Your post brought back some delightful memories of our "Nat'l Parks trip" we took some years ago, with our little tent trailer in tow.  We left on Memorial day, and found  some of the parks just barely open, but it was a glorious trip.  We went to the GC, Bryce, Zion, Glacier, Banff, Jasper, and some I probably can't remember.  The real highlight of the trip, though, was after leaving Bryce (or was it Zion?), and heading for Capitol Reef, we were on Hwy 12, when a "Wyatt Earp" type of cowboy flagged us down.  We were a bit wary, but he was letting us know there was a cattle drive coming up the road. He also told us to get ready, because we were going to be traveling on one of the most scenic roads anywhere.  A few minutes later, the cattle drive appeared, and it was an odd sensation to have cattle mooing, and brushing up against both sides of our car.  We were happy, indeed, to grant them the right of way. .  
As we continued to make our way to Capitol Reef, we were stunned by the beauty everywhere we looked, the acres of Aspens, the rocks, and something new each time we turned our heads.  That cowboy was so right!
Capital Reef was another wonderful surprise, and at the time we were there, there were few rangers, and not much signage. We were warned that we'd be on our own if we went exploring, and we enjoyed doing a lot of that.  I'm sure that was the most memorable part of our trip....and these days, I have trouble remembering a lot of things. LOL!  
My son lived in Roosevelt, UT for 11 yrs., so we'd seen a lot of the area up there, and Flaming Gorge Dam is another nice thing, if you get up that way.
Enjoy.  The time of year you chose to go sounds like a popular one.  Jean


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## shagnut (Feb 2, 2009)

Werner, got a question. How far away is goosenecks state park from St George? I will be there for one week and plan on Zion, Bryce, Escalante, & spend one night in the grand canyon north rim. I would love to see Moab & Canyonlands but I only have a week. What would you suggest?  shaggy


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## Werner (Feb 3, 2009)

shaggy,  Its a long haul,  310 miles.  It's on the east side of Lake Powell.  If you look at the map on the link, once you go east of Kanab you are either going to Arizona or you are going to go straight back (or you are going to do some serious 4WD driving).  Just the round trip out of Kanab is almost 450 miles because you have to drive around Lake Powell, crossing the Colorado at Lee's Ferry.  Like everything else out there its a gorgeous ride but I wouldn't do it just to see that.  There are lots of things to see and do on a ride like that.  

If you are going to the North Rim and have some extra time, take the paved road to Cape Royal and Point Imperial.  The park rangers give a great talk on Anasazi life in the Canyon at the ruins along that route. They also give a good talk on the geology of the Canyon at the Grand Canyon Lodge.  Take some of the gravel roads to other viewpoints along the rim, like Point Sublime if the road is open, or some of the Marble Canyon overlooks.   These are things that you can't do at the south rim and they would probably be more productive than just doing that drive to Goosenecks.  I think it might be better to plan another week or two to see southeastern Utah.  Virtually the entire southern third of Utah is National Park or National Monument and its a big state.  (Especially if you are used to living in Vermont).

PS, I hope you already have reservations at the North Rim, the lodge fills up fast.  The southwest is a major international destination these days and international tour operators book the park lodges early.  The most common language we heard among tourists was German, followed by Russian and Spanish.  English was way down the list.


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## Werner (Feb 3, 2009)

*Plan B*

shaggy,  If you want to try an off-the-beaten path route closer to St. George, I suggest Toroweap Overlook at the western end of the North Rim.  By the standard route  it is 113 mi from St. George.  It is the site where lava flows damned up the Colorado and flooded the canyon several times during its history.  The link to the NPS site above discusses three routes to get there.  We were running out of time by then and had to pass it up.  I'm sorry we did but it is on the list for the next trip.  It is a 61 mile washboardy gravel road to a NPS campsite.  I would assume that a sedan could do it since it goes to a park campsite used by RV's.

This route also gets you close to Pipe Springs National Monument. , not something to go far out of your way for but interesting.


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