# Trip Report - 10 days visiting Utah National Parks Monuments and Antelope Canyon



## sun starved Gayle (Apr 28, 2018)

We had a wonderful trip. Thanks to all the Tuggers for their helpful suggestions. Drove a lot, (over 1700 miles) saw a lot. My husband just qualified in January for a National Parks Golden Age Passport and that saved us a lot. We mostly had breakfast at the hotel, picnic lunches while hiking, and dinners out. Here is our rough itinerary:


Day 1:  Las Vegas to Page, Arizona. Early morning flight to LAS. Picked up rental car, drove the strip, drove up to Red Rocks State Park, free with GA passport, and did the scenic drive. This took more time than we thought, would not do next time. Headed to Page, AZ. Stopped at Paria Canyon/Vermillion Cliffs and did a hike into Buckskin Gulch, had a picnic dinner. Arrived in Page late. Stayed at Best Western View of Lake Powell. Good Breakfast, nice people. Could be cleaner. Caters to tour group crowd.


Day 2: Second night in Page, Arizona. Headed to Wal-Mart for supplies, water, etc. Went to Horse Shoe Bend. Scenic but crowded. Bus load after bus load of Chinese tourists. Toured Glen Canyon Dam, went to viewpoint above Wahweap Marina. Used my husband's new Golden Age Passport to get in free (normally $25.00) to Glen Canyon National Recreation Area and walked around the Wahweap Marina where there was a bass fishing tournament going on. Interesting to see the fishermen pull in with fancy boats and live fish to be weighed. Hiked to Weeping Gardens. Dinner at Big John's BBQ. Nice people, good food, sat outside on the patio and listened to a very good band.


Day 3: Page AZ to Moab. The whole reason for the big detour to Page was to visit Antelope Canyon. Got up early, had quick breakfast at hotel (they were late opening the breakfast room) and then drove to lower Antelope Canyon for our tour. This is on Navajo land and you MUST go with a Navajo guide. I booked on line with Dixie Ellis's tours ($107.00 for the two of us with all taxes and fees) for the first tour of the morning at 7:15 at my husband's insistence, and was very glad I did. Counting us, there were only 7 people on the tour and we were the very first group in the canyon that morning. It was great to be in that breathtakingly beautiful slot canyon with just our little group. Our Navajo guide Melanie, was superb. Even showing how to change people's cell phone cameras to "vivid" and showing the best spots for photos, and taking very good pictures of us. Tip your guide !


Continued on to  Monument Valley, did the visitor’s center and scenic drive through the reservation. No one at the toll both to collect the $20.00 fee. Very windy. The people on the open air jeep top tours looked miserable. Went to museum at Gouldings. Drove through Mexican Hat and Highway 261, which has a wild, gravel switch-back road with 10% grades to Natural Bridges National Monument. Used Golden Passport, saved $20.00 entrance fee. Drove scenic drive, my husband chose to do two short hikes to Tusupai Arch and Wanatouch Arch.  I chose to stay in car and nap!


Continued on to Moab. Checked into Homewood Suites. Great walkable location, very nice hotel. New and clean. Good breakfast with fresh berries, and a Monday-Thursday "social" with heavy appetizers from 5-7. Dinner at El Churro Loco. Nice people, not very good food. No liquor license.


Day 4: Second night in Moab.  Breakfast at hotel. Drove to Arches NP, free with GA passport, eight miles from downtown. Did scenic drive, stopped and hiked to Windows Arch and Landscape Arch at Devils Garden Trailhead. My husband also hiked to Delicate Arch. Drove through Devils Garden campground (flush toilets!) and spotted a sign next to the rest room for a little hike to Tapestry Arch. Very nice, no crowds which was a big plus. Sunny but windy. People in the campground were collapsing their tents so the tent poles would not snap. Back to the hotel, had the free appetizers and salad there and decided we were not hungry for dinner anymore so headed back to Arches to watch the sun set on the rocks. Park was much less crowded, early evening a good time to visit. Did some laundry at hotel. A good day.


Day 5:  Moab to Torrey. Breakfast at hotel. Headed to Dead Horse Point State Park and did hike to Dead Horse Point Overlook. Golden Age Passport not good in State park. Was nice, but wish we would have skipped as we did not have time to stop at Goblin State Park on our way to Torrey. Went on to Canyonlands and did hike to Mesa Arch. Picnic lunch. Also hiked to Grandview Overlook. Stayed at Best Western Capital Reef, breakfast not included. We ended up in an older, redone room which was not the best. If I were to stay there again I would ask for a room in the lower building with a view. There was construction of a large new hotel down the road, called Red Sands or Red Cliffs or someting similar. That might be worth checking out if you were staying in the area at a later date. Dinner at Red Cliffs Café. Nice people, bad food.


Day 6: Second night in Torrey. Breakfast in room. Visited Capital Reef. Went to Panorama Point and Gooseneck overlooks, did scenic drive. visited Fruita and The Gifford House, part of early Mormon settlement. Hiked to Hickman Bridge, beautiful hike. One of the best of the trip,  billed as one of the best hikes in Utah. Also hiked Grandwash. A flat and easy hike through several Canyons. Had a very good dinner across the street from our hotel at The Rimrock Restaurant. Good service, good food served hot.


*Day 7: Torrey to Bryce Canyon City. Woke up to snow flurries and 29 degrees. Breakfast in room at hotel. Snowing going over 9200 foot Hogsback, so view was obstructed. Stopped at Kiva Coffee House, a very cool structure out in the middle of nowhere, with good coffee and breakfast items. Highly recommended stop. Stopped at Escalante Petrified Forest State Park, then on to Grand-Staircase Escalante National Monument. I afraid I don’t have good notes on what we did there. Went to Kodachrome State Park and did a nice hike there to Shakespeare Arch/Sentinel Trail. Drove to Bryce Canyon, arrived late afternoon, Park was emptying out which was a good thing. Cold, clear and windy! We did not realize it was Free National Park day, no entry  fees, so it was crowded. Drove to Bryce Amphitheater, Sunrise and Sunset Point and did short hikes, then to Inspiration Point where we were we were the only people there, which was great. Early evening seems to be a good time to visit, as most people have headed out of the parks after a full day. Had a very nice dinner in the Bryce Canyon Lodge dining room. Checked in late for one night to Ruby’s Best Western Hotel, huge complex of 370 rooms. Lots of stores and shops. This was our only one night stay of trip. The room was clean and comfortable. Unfortunately, we had a room right outside the indoor pool and it was very noisy. The pool was a two story, glassed in structure with a two story lobby with sofas where parents sat to watch their kids. You can imagine how noisy an open, two story, glass structure could get ! The pool was suppose to close at 10:00 and there were lots of kids and adults still in and around the pool and being noisy at 10:10. I called the front desk and security quickly came and closed the pool down and all was quiet by 10:20 so we were able to go to sleep.*

*Day 8: Bryce Canyon City to Springdale. Breakfast in room. Drove the 17 mile scenic drive into Bryce Canyon stopping at many view points.  My husband did the Queen’s Garden Hike. Back tracked a little to Cannonville as my husband was anxious to do the Willis Creek Slot Canyon hike on BML land that was on his radar and Chemtech here on TUG had also recommended. There had been some rain/snow the day before and BLM did not recommend driving on the dirt road the day before when we passed through, but was OK this day. Did the Willis Creek hike. Beautiful hike through 5 different slot canyons. Quite a bit of water due to rain the day before. On to Springdale, going through the Mt. Carmel Junction and the eastern route through the park. Checked into Holiday Inn Express Hotel. Clean, very well kept and comfortable. Had first floor room next to elevator with window that look on to busy parking lot. A second floor room facing the grassy area with red rocks behind would have been ideal, but they were full so they could not switch us. Walked to dinner at Casa de Amigos and ate outside. Very good, but slow. I think we walked in the tail end of a rush. *

*Day 9: Second Day in Springdale/Zion. Breakfast at hotel. Nice, nice young men manning the breakfast room. We were able to sit outside in the sun. This was also our least favorite hotel breakfast food. It was OK, but not great. We were spoiled by the Homewood Suites in Moab with fresh raspberries and blueberries among other tasty options. Took the free town shuttle into the park visitor’s center. Then took the free park shuttle all the way to the end of the line and worked our way back down.  Hiked to The Narrows at the Temple of Sinawava, then shuttled down and hiked to Weeping Rock. Hopped on the shuttle again and went to the Lodge where we had lunch on the lawn and then hiked to Emerald Pools.  By that time it was late afternoon and I was done hiking, so I shuttled back to our hotel while my husband shuttled back up and hiked to Angel’s Landing. Then sat by the pool enjoying the 84 degree weather while my husband had a beer I purchased for him at the little store across the parking lot. Walked across the street to the Bit and Spur Restaurant where we had an excellent dinner and were able to sit outside and continue to enjoy the nice weather.*

*Day 10: Breakfast at hotel. Headed up to the northern, less visited part of the park on Kolab Reservation Road to Lava Canyon View. Then on to Kolab Canyons View which my husband has labeled “fantastic!” but I don’t quite remember it that way. Lots of dead trees from a fire. I think was jaded by then of all the other beautiful landscapes we had seen. Long drive back to Las Vegas, stopping in Mesquite to run the rental through a car wash after I read in the fine print that we were not suppose to take the rental on dirt roads. Dinner at Las Vegas Steak and Chop House in the airport which was surprisingly good, and then boarded our flight home.*

*Some random thoughts:  *
*Hiking poles are your friends and can save your knees, especially on steep downward trails. Wonderful for steep uphill climbs also.  Love my poles. My husband bought me some very light-weight foldable and packable ones several years ago and I love them. *

*Try and book hotels with breakfast included. It saves a lot of time and energy.  For the most part, we did breakfast at the hotel, a picnic lunch and ate dinner out. Some hotels offer a "grab and go" option if you have to leave before the breakfast room opens. Make arrangement the night before.*

*Join any chain points program for the hotels where you are staying. I was upgraded to a suite at one hotel, given extra points at another and got a welcome gift.*

*I am glad I bit the bullet and booked in Springdale right outside Zion, instead booking in a town farther away. So nice to walk to dinner and the shuttle, It was worth the extra $$.*

*Our temperatures varied from 29 degrees and snow flurries in Torrey to 84 degrees in Zion in mid April. Pack for all kinds of weather. I was glad I had my warm coat, gloves and hat. A lot of people we encountered did not pack for the cold and they did not look like they were enjoying themselves.*

*A baseball cap was not good enough sun protection, I stopped and bought a better hat, so now I have about 4 of the same type of hat at home. Lesson learned.*

*Bring lots of sunscreen.*

*If you are over 62, get a  Lifetime Golden Age Passport for $80.00 for free entry into all National Parks and Monuments. *

*Timeshares have spoiled me, hotels are expensive and not as nice !*

*I’m certainly not an expert on Utah, but would be happy to try and answer any questions. Thanks again to all who gave me advice !*


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## WinniWoman (Apr 29, 2018)

Thanks!

Phew! This read like a marathon! LOL! Can I ask- all these hikes you went on-how long were the hikes, because it seems you both did an awful lot of them and I know from my past experience hiking here on the East coast that most hikes take 2- 4 hours or more average. Were some of these an hour or less time wise? How did you pack so many of them in?

We don't usually do long hikes when we are away due to limited time. We might walk like for an hour or even less and we try not to do anything too steep for a long time.

We would have done the same thing you did with Antelope Canyon- the earlier the better! Sounds like it was a wonderful experience!

You did a lot- though you did have 10 days. I like the idea of taking hiking poles with me (which I do not own- would have to buy) but when flying I only take a carry on and am afraid they would be confiscated.

Anyway, we are booked right at the entrance to Zion for next Sept. '19 at Cable Mountain Lodge and will have a kitchen, so we will be able to eat breakfast and go.  And- my husband was lucky to get the $10 National Park Senior Pass a few years ago so we are good with that also.

I agree about being spoiled with timeshares which is why we are springing for Cable Mountain- though not a timeshare- but has a kitchen and living room. We did the same last year for Rocky Mountain National Park with Rams Horn. Both- right at the entrance of the parks. (In fact- even when were were in Yellowstone- booked at Worldmark- again- right at the entrance to the park) In fact- we are staying put for the week when in Utah and driving out from it as a base for Zion and Bryce and other nearby sights. Only will be there for 7 days- 2 being travel days to and from the airport. I personally do not like staying in multiple hotels and living out of a suitcase, but I realize you can see a lot more that way. If we were doing 10 days, we probably would have booked one other place maybe near Bryce I guess.

I also agree about Homewood Suites. We were originally going to use them for our Colorado trip when we scheduled to be in Durango- precisely because of their reputation and the good breakfasts and happy hour food- an close location to the airport. But then had to change our itinerary to Estes Park.

Yes- you cannot drive on dirt roads with a rental car. If something were to happen, the contract becomes null and void, so you were lucky with that.

What was your favorite(s) on this trip?


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## Greg G (Apr 29, 2018)

Wow, what a trip.  So were the hikes mostly flat?  If you have any pictures to post, would love to see them.

Greg


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## sun starved Gayle (Apr 30, 2018)

On most days, I hiked 4-6 miles max, with my husband usually doing more miles on more difficult trails after I had enough for the day. He can go pretty fast without me, I'm sloooow, and not in the best shape.   Most hikes I did were labeled easy or moderate. There are many short hikes, I suppose you could even call them walks, that are less than a mile long RT. That is how we did so many.

I will have to think a little about my favorites.

Mary Ann, I know you are not able to pack hiking poles in your carry-on's. I personally would not do this trip and hikes without them. I would consider either buying at home and checking them in my luggage, renting at your location, or ordering on line and have them waiting at hotel and leaving them when you depart if you were really opposed to checking your luggage. It looks like this place rents them for $7.00 a day.

ZION ADVENTURE COMPANY
https://www.zionadventures.com/store/p25/Trekking_Poles_(Pair).html

I do not think I could have done as many hikes as we did without them. The first time I used mine, I wondered why it had taken me so long to get some ! This is my personal opinion of course.

Greg, I will try and post some pics I have later, when I have more time.


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## DaveNV (Apr 30, 2018)

But Gayle, after all that, did you have fun? I know you planned so hard - did it work like you hoped it would? I sure hope you liked it. Southern Utah rates right up there among my favorite places to visit. Welcome home!

Dave


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## sun starved Gayle (Apr 30, 2018)

Hi Dave, Yes we had an absolutely wonderful time, lots of fun, thanks !


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## WinniWoman (Apr 30, 2018)

sun starved Gayle said:


> On most days, I hiked 4-6 miles max, with my husband usually doing more miles on more difficult trails after I had enough for the day. He can go pretty fast without me, I'm sloooow, and not in the best shape.   Most hikes I did were labeled easy or moderate. There are many short hikes, I suppose you could even call them walks, that are less than a mile long RT. That is how we did so many.
> 
> I will have to think a little about my favorites.
> 
> ...



Well- you did A LOT - that's for sure!  Thanks for the info. on the pole renting. I will bookmark this. I never check luggage anymore, so this is a great option.


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## sun starved Gayle (May 1, 2018)

Mary Ann, I also suggest you specify with hotel that you want a room facing the rock formations in the back and not the street. I hope you have a little balcony or deck to enjoy the view with your morning coffee !


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## WinniWoman (May 1, 2018)

sun starved Gayle said:


> Mary Ann, I also suggest you specify with hotel that you want a room facing the rock formations in the back and not the street. I hope you have a little balcony or deck to enjoy the view with your morning coffee !




Thanks! Yes- we sprung for a mountain view in a Parkside luxury suite at Cable Mountain Lodge. It has a balcony.


http://cablemountainlodge.com/


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## JudyH (May 2, 2018)

My favorite part of the world. I love my hiking sticks. So helpful going up or down. Your report makes me want to return tomorrow.


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## heathpack (May 4, 2018)

Nice trip!


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## happymum (May 8, 2018)

Thanks for the detailed review! Hope to duplicate your trip one day!


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## klpca (May 8, 2018)

Great trip report. I agree, hiking sticks (or trekking poles as my kids like to remind me!) are invaluable. I have been using them for over 20 years because the downhill always killed my knees. I'm glad that you had a great time!


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## klpca (May 8, 2018)

Double post.  Once was enough


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## taterhed (May 8, 2018)

Great trip report!  Glad you had so much to do and a successful trip.

Loved the report about the poles; I've been meaning to get a set and keep forgetting.

cheers.


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## geoand (May 11, 2018)

When you visited Antelope Canyon, did you visit the lower Canyon or the Upper Canyon.  From what I read, the lower canyon is much more difficult to hike thru.


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## callwill (May 12, 2018)

Scanned thru, been out there a couple times...I did not see Cedar Breaks mentioned...a must see if you can fit it in.  Also, there is a road that runs out of Moab toward Grand junction colorado, runs along the colorado river. Awesome views...
There is also a corner of Zion that many miss, Kolob Canyons, just off the highway and worth the time to drive up and down stopping at the scenic viewpoints along the drive. It is spectacular imho.


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## sun starved Gayle (May 14, 2018)

geoand said:


> When you visited Antelope Canyon, did you visit the lower Canyon or the Upper Canyon.  From what I read, the lower canyon is much more difficult to hike thru.



We did the lower canyon. There are some sets of steep stairs going down.  I went backwards, like going down a ladder and I was fine.


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