We stayed at the Island Links last week at HHI-wonderful resort, even had an alligator sunning himself on the banks there. We enjoyed Hudsons at the north part of the island, it used to be an oyster processing plant and is on the water. Next door there is an upscale restaurant, Charlie's Crab, that has a very reasonable early bird special and is very good.
The trolley tour run by Grayline is very good and gives a good overview of the island's history.